By the way, the rebuild kit that V-Twin has only contains the bare essentials. There are small parts such as the inlet needle/seat subassemblies and check valve (balls) hidden behind some of those welch plugs located inside the diaphragm area on the bottom of the body. These parts are not included in the current rebuild kits that I have seen. While finding these parts may be difficult, I would at least try to licate the correct sized welch plugs so you can remove the existing ones and remove/clean/check these parts and cavities for proper operation. ANother problem is bent brass choak flaps located in the front of the main body bore, which become bent as a result of backfiring through the carb. If bent, these must be straightened if they're not cracked from fatigue, or replaced.
We used to supply all of this stuff at Eastern, but I don't know if he still sells these parts to Ted and others. While he (Gil) is a wholesale operation only and does not sell directly to individuals, you might try calling them and asking if they still carry these parts. If they do you can inquire about which of his wholesale customers you may purchase them. Eastern is in North Carolina 803 284 3304. Ask for Jeffery (his son) or Carol.
Good Luck...
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Lloyd,
The number is stamped on the mounting flange. The letter is part of the number and tells you what you have.
RobbieLeave a comment:
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Ahh yes - those 'good' old days when we young ones had to be mechanics just to get our choppers started......Leave a comment:
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I used to keep a paper clip on the top end oil line for "tickling" the diaphragm.
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A lot of guys hated this carburator, but once I learned how to live with them, I developed a long-standing fondness for them. The 'D' was the latest revision and was in service in 1969. I have run these carbs (all series) for may years on Sportsters and I've always had very good luck rebuilding them. You just have to be very thorough and precise during the rebuild and when running them, you must resist the urge to fiddle with the low speed/ Idle wheel. Set it up and leave it alone. These carbs are also very sensitive to dirt, so run a filter. Make sure that your vent line (running up through the gast tank to the fill spigot) is clear as well.
Keep your eyes pealed on EBay (ulgh !!) as I've seen parts, including accelerator pumps show up there occasionally. You may try to epand your old accelerator pump by soaking it in armoral for a few days. It doesn't take a lot of side pressure between the pump leather and the plastic cylinder to spray the fuel stream into the carb body.
Occasionally they do have a problem with priming which makes starting very difficult (thus the bad reputation). Many a Sportster kicker gear has been worn out as a result of this problem. If this happens, gently poke the steel button on the diaphrage located inside the in the bottom center hole of the white plastic diaphragm cover for about 1 second (only). That will allow gas to flow into the opening. There used to be an aftemarket butto for this, but I haven't seen one for many years.Leave a comment:
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A's, B's, and C's had problems. The D was supposedly the cure all. H-D sold a rebuild kit that would convert any letter to a D. As my foggy memory serves the D was in service in 1969.Leave a comment:
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Tillotson carb
I have had a 69FL for a long time and never the correct carb. Can I get input from people who have run a Tillotson carb and their experiences? I have several bodies. Which is correct for my year HD101A, HD2D, HD1D ? I also purchased a rebuild kit from V-Twin(diaphragm, gasket and springs) but they were out of stock on accelerator pumps, does anyone know where I can purchase one? I had spoke to Jim Dingess about 10 years ago and if I remember correctly he bought a 69 new and rode across country and had to stop at a dealer and drill something larger in the body?? Can't quite remember what he told me. Anybody familiar with a problem like this? Thanks Bob #6738
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