69 FLH starter problem.

[slamiste]

I have a 1969 FLH. This is my only electric start Harley therefore I don't have any experience with the starting system. I don't have a manual for it and I don't want to invest in one since I'm not planning on keeping the bike (my Daughter in Law is going to buy it from me). I was going to get it out for it's first spring ride but the starting system has developed a problem. Upon pushing the starter button all I get is a chattering noise. Every one in a while the starter will engage for a second or two then go back to chattering. Battery is strong so I don't think that's the problem. I suspect the solenoid but would like some opinions from Shovel Head knowledgeable people.



Steve Slaminko

[tfburke3]

No shovehead knowledge so I will ask the obvious.Did youput a meter on the battery to see if there is a abnormal voltage drop while trying to start?
I just replaced my flht battery that showed full charge on maintainer but acted similar.
tom

[slamiste]

I didn't meter the battery. When I first tried to start it after having a battery tender on it all winter it momentarily clattered, then turned over a bit then the battery voltage quickly dropped and was too low to do anything. I put my battery charger on it and set it to the start mode, had very strong lights, etc but it still had the situation as I described.

[Jerry Wieland]

Sounds like a bad connection or bad battery. Jerry

[Lyle Manheimer]

You need to place a DC voltmeter on the battery terminals. Note the battery terminal voltage. Next press the start button and watch the battery terminal voltage it will drop significantly, possibly to 11 volts or lower. When you let off of the start button the battery should return to nearly the voltage you initially had. If it does not your battery is bad. I call this a real world load test. If the voltage does return to what you initially had, you probably have a bad starter which would need to be diagnosed with a DC ammeter for high starting current.
I am sure you checked the oil tank before you cranked it but if you did not a sump full of oil will cause a high current condition but again the battery terminal voltage should return to what you started with.
A battery can be bad and indicate a full charge with a tender. When placing a high load on it if there is a faulty internal connection it will open and no voltage will be present.
As Jerry said check the terminal connections first.

[joe fxs fxr]

If you want to test out the relay under the oil tank, you can short the big terminals and see if you get it to turn over. If that works, do the same on the one at the primary. Either one may have corroded inner contacts.

[EricOlson]

...I don't have a manual for it and I don't want to invest in one...

Steve, You should be able to download and view a free digital copy of the manual at https://www.hydra-glide.net/joomla/i...service-manual or http://www.indian-france.com/rtm.html.

Eric Olson

[KNUCK]

Sure sounds like a battery or maybe a connection with my past experience. As stated a tender can show full charge but really it is weak and starter does not like a weak battery. Jump it to your car is a thought.......

[slamiste]

Thanks everyone for all the input. I'm working on other projects now and haven't spent too much time on the Shovel. I did try and jump it with my truck today and got the same bad results. After that I found a sorta loose connection on the solenoid and tighten it but haven't done any further testing. I'll test all the suggestion listed above when I get some time. I'm getting ready for Oley so it might be a couple of weeks before I get back to it. If I get it sorted out I'm let you all know what the solution was. The manual download will be a big help.

Steve Slaminko

[Paps]

It is the solenoid or dirt, grease and grime on the engagement components of the shaft. There never should be any lubricant added to those components, only the bushing areas should see grease, The spool, gear, fork, and plunger....never. Check those. Check the spools fork teat path and fork teats for wear. Spool wear is when the radius is no longer a radius. Fork teat wear is when the teats have become flat sided.

[T. Cotten]

There's a big copper-clad washer in the solenoid, Steve!

It often gets burn spots where it crosses the contacts of the solenoid cap.

Flip the washer on the shaft to its other side, and dress the contacts.

(And beware of ACCEL products...)

....Cotten