1973 FLH Rear Wheel Bearing Rebuild / Tolerances ???

[Twister the fitter]

I've installed a completely new, rear wheel bearing kit and cannot meet the factory "end play" tolerances listed in my manual. I apologize if I seem to be "splitting hairs" on this subject, but "factory supplied tolerances" are listed by engineers for a reason, correct? I've installed the longest, 4.448/white, inner wheel bearing spacer along with new Timken races, bearings, outer bearing spacers, seals, washers and retaining rings, torqued it all to 50-55 ft lbs. and cannot get ANY/0 end play. Manual calls for .004-.0018 end play with the torque figure listed. The wheel spins freely with all that said. If I use the existing inner spacer at 4.437 the wheel "locks-up" under torque. Am I missing something here, it isn't adding up. My question is, should I be fine with zero end play or do I need to address why there's no additional end play per specs.? Thanks for indulging, Twister

[pan620]

Twister, you need some end play, zero end play as check by a indicator will fail when it all warms up. They used shims in the later years to help with this. You did check your spacer with a good micrometer?

[Twister the fitter]

Thanks Pan620, I did check the new inner spacer dimension several times, that's how I arrived at those measurements for the new spacer and the existing one. Where on earth do I get shim washers for between the spacer and bearings for this wheel, or do I just get some standard washers that measure in thickness to obtain the "end play" needed ? I guess I could also tig weld a bead on the inner spacer and trim to length to get more "end play" ??? I never realized that such a simple rebuild could be so challenging !!! Twister

[PanheadFred1]

Are you sure your races are seated in the hub completely?

[Twister the fitter]

As best as I can tell Fred. Except for maybe a thin film of grease from driving the bearing race in. The races seemed to "bottom out" as my drive hammer "pings" back off the seating tool ! ??? Twister

[PanheadFred1]

Just trying to eliminate the simple stuff.

[jim d]

Did you try a search for Harley wheel bearing shim?

[Twister the fitter]

I understand Fred, thanks ! They're usually the one's that bite us in the a#s, right ?

[Twister the fitter]

Not yet Jim, but now that you've suggested it, I am going to do that right now.

[Twister the fitter]

Good call there Jim. I just looked them up and J&P has a 10pc. kit with sizes from .002 to .023. Thanks for the help ! Twister

[pan620]

As i stated earlier I think the shims are for later wheels, does your spacer have a shoulder on each end?

[Twister the fitter]

Yes it does Pan620. I'm still debating on which course of action to take, buy the shim kit or just weld a bead on the end of the inner spacer and trim to fit ??? Any thoughts ? Twister

[jim d]

I have the welding equipment and lathe to modify the spacer. But I would use the shim kit because when you are setting it up if it is not quite what you want you can change the shim rather than modify the spacer again or another spacer.

[pan620]

With out going in to the shop and studying, the shim is not the right O.D. to fit the back side of the bearing instead the later spacer was straight with no step and came with a spacer that was stepped to fit the bearing and you put the shims behind it so it would still push on the inner race of the bearing, I can get you the part number for you Monday when I am back at the shop. I f I was you I would tig it and machine to fit, no real money out your pocket if you can do it yourself! Dave

[Twister the fitter]

Thanks for that info Dave ! I'm thinking that's the way to go as well, tig it and trim. I do have a new inner spacer on it's way, the one that came in my kit is .004 short of the mark, (just exactly what I need for "end play"). I'll mic the new one FIRST this time and not assume it was correct from the start ! Tim