BINGO !! You named it ! The rear exhaust seal was completely off the guide . I am going to get the heads done . The valves were at the limit of there tolerance , so might as well go for new seats ) . I am going to post another thread to find a shop that does heads . Thank you for sticking with me thru this . I'll let you know how it all turns out . Best regards, Mike
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After thinking about it , I agree . This 1971 motor had a AMF 1200 to 1340 kit put in it (16175-78 ) , which I believe would make it a stroker ? So if the pistons were changed , and non stroker pistons were put in would that hinder the oil return ( draining ) ?
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For anyone that cares at this point ! The pistons are fine I removed the rear jug nothing is blocking the return .
I am going to put the stock pump back on & If the tappets still clatter when the oil gets hot ( the reason I started all of this ) I will go to solids .
Thanks to everybody for all the help , Mike
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A valve guide seal that is loose and riding up and down on the stem will act as a pump and force oil down the guide and make it smoke more than if you had no seal at all. As for replacing your seats what is your valve stem protrusion? You can run shovel valves a lot deeper than what HD tells you with no problems.
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Thanks D.Ed & TomL . I agree with the " seal acting like a pump " but it only smokes at idle , NO smoke when the rpm's are up , make's me think it has to do with the bypass valve ??
As for the breather tapped hole & plug , I did that ( I got an A+ from S&S on my case alterations ) I sent them the same pictures as on this thread .
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Changing cylinders and pistons with out changing the crank shaft only makes the motor a "big bore". 1200/74 is 3 31/32" stroke, 1340/80 is 4.25". So technically not a stroker. The oil drains down through cylinder passage and dumps in crankcase below piston skirts. How do you know the motor does not smoke at road speeds as its kind of hard to look back and see smoke unless the motor is a skeeter smoke machine! I would suggest a wet and dry compression test if you have not done one, could be a ring issue. G/L
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Well this is the final , FINAL report on this . I sent the pump back to S&S . They tested it & said it was good . They then said they got in touch with an old tech that worked at Harley .
He said that " stock crankcase surfaces change over time & are not as flat . Then when you install the billet pump it causes weird things to happen . He has seen this happen before ".
They also said that they were sending the pump back to me ( saying , "you might be able to use it on a future build " ) , along with a check for " FULL reimbursement " ( $ 466.48 , purchased on ebay ) !! I thought that was incredible !!!! S&S has my business forever !!
I am still running the bike with the stock pump as stated in the prior thread & is still running great ( knock on wood ) . Thanks again for everyone's help .
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Originally posted by 1970 XLCH View PostWell this is the final , FINAL report on this . I sent the pump back to S&S . They tested it & said it was good . They then said they got in touch with an old tech that worked at Harley .
He said that " stock crankcase surfaces change over time & are not as flat . Then when you install the billet pump it causes weird things to happen . He has seen this happen before ".
They also said that they were sending the pump back to me ( saying , "you might be able to use it on a future build " ) , along with a check for " FULL reimbursement " ( $ 466.48 , purchased on ebay ) !! I thought that was incredible !!!! S&S has my business forever !!
I am still running the bike with the stock pump as stated in the prior thread & is still running great ( knock on wood ) . Thanks again for everyone's help .
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