Gas Tank Restoration

[Flathead fathead]

I'm definately no "old school craftsman" I just knew an old auto body man who was dieing of emphysema (he said it was the bondo) who wanted to teach someone before he passed. I did it for a few years but found out I had lead levels in my blood at the high end of the normal range. Between that and casting my own bullets I had to give up something. I think I still have the tools in the back of my barn some where, I never get rid of tools or guns. I'll be glad to pass on any knowlege I can remember, the biggest thing is to get your tanks really clean.
My tanks don't have any holes just rust so it should be an easy fix. Tin tanks aren't really an issue for me I've only had one pre 36 bike and don't expect I'll own another one.

[panz4ever]

Just picked up a bottle of Rusteco (they are out of Torrance CA). Using it on a stock 78 FXE tank. Going to let it sit in there for a couple more days, drain it and see how the inside looks. Doesn't harm the paint (or the environment). Not cheap by any means but is supposed to work well. Update will be coming.

[ihrescue]

Hi Flathead - I sent you a message to your inbox with a contact for someone in your Rea that may offer some help on the tank.

Mike Love
Member #19097

[Jcadams]

I realize this is too late for you,but I used POR 15 about 10 or 12 years ago and is still good. It was around 50 $ and did a set of fat bobs and a mustang tank with one kit. It’s 3 parts and took about 6 hrs but worth it. I learned about this from a car restorer,

[T. Cotten]

I realize this is too late for you,but I used POR 15 about 10 or 12 years ago and is still good. It was around 50 $ and did a set of fat bobs and a mustang tank with one kit. It’s 3 parts and took about 6 hrs but worth it. I learned about this from a car restorer,

I lost big $ on POR-15, Jcadams!

Then I used it to test my local fuel year after year by applying it and other goobers to etched glass plates.

POR-15 invariably peeled off overnight, as shown at the bottom left in the attachment.

Results will vary as the fuels vary.

....Cotten

[Jcadams]

Sorry for your bad luck with por 15 but I would use again in a minute. Maybe it’s not meant for glass

[TomL]

Hello, this is a topic in a slightly different direction but this thread seems appropriate to ask my question, which is; how does one go about removing an old poorly done tanks seal job and I believe by the looks of it, it is what is branded as "Cream" sealant? Thanks. TL

[T. Cotten]

Sorry for your bad luck with por 15 but I would use again in a minute. Maybe it’s not meant for glass

That's was the manufacturer's response, JCA!

Still, the glass test proves it is certainly not inert in P4gas.

Don't dip floats in it, either.

....Cotten

[exeric]

Hello, this is a topic in a slightly different direction but this thread seems appropriate to ask my question, which is; how does one go about removing an old poorly done tanks seal job and I believe by the looks of it, it is what is branded as "Cream" sealant? Thanks. TL

TL, I have used paint remover (paste type) with very good success. MEK will also work, but it costs a lot more, evaporates quickly, and will leak out when it eats it's way through a pinhole. Paste type paint remover will cling to the sides, and top of tank and do it's job. When it's done, use MEK to remove residue. Paint remover, MEK, acetone, etc. are all messy, toxic, potentially dangerous affairs, so be careful, and use in a well ventilated place, with gloves, and eye protection. I also re-use old paint remover as it doesn't really go bad.

[Jcadams]

I used to hear of it failing all the time in the early 80s,then it seemed to go away. Unfortionately I never heard of a remedy.

[T. Cotten]

I used to hear of it failing all the time in the early 80s,then it seemed to go away. Unfortionately I never heard of a remedy.

Ironidally, Folks,..

Early '80s Kreme worked fine! I still have some in veteran tanks (albeit dry through modern fuel changes of the last decade).
It even adhered to materials other than bare steel, with proper prep of course..
Then apparently the sealer's formula changed as well, probably because of regulated toxics, and removal became the issue.

Such ever changing variables make any sealer a risk.
The agony of removal far exceeds the benefits, except perhaps for terneplate tanks.

A soak isn't going to completely remove it.
You will need a mechanical action as well, such as tumbling with abrasives.

....Cotten

[Architect]

Ironidally, Folks,..

Early '80s Kreme worked fine! I still have some in veteran tanks (albeit dry through modern fuel changes of the last decade).
It even adhered to materials other than bare steel, with proper prep of course..
Then apparently the sealer's formula changed as well, probably because of regulated toxics, and removal became the issue.

Such ever changing variables make any sealer a risk.
The agony of removal far exceeds the benefits, except perhaps for terneplate tanks.

A soak isn't going to completely remove it.
You will need a mechanical action as well, such as tumbling with abrasives.

....Cotten

Of course you have a rig to spin tanks!!!!!

Everyone talks about wrapping them in blankets and putting them in a clothes dryer, your way obviously is much better, and again, of course YOU made one. Good for Cotten!

[T. Cotten]

Well, Architect,...

First, I burnt up a Red Devil paint shaker trying to slow it with the wrong control, or somethin'.
Otherwise, the media stayed suspended off the walls in a cloud.

Then I tried to make a vibratory table out of an old scroll saw that was powered by a big growler-style coil.
Took too long.

But so does my paddle wheel design at 1 rps.

....Cotten
PS: The dryer is worth a try if it is disposable. A pair of bobs quarter-full of aquarium gravel might be tricky to balance.

[danf19]

Not to hijack this thread but has anyone ever used the fuel tank sealing products made by "Hirsch" ??
Thanks
Dan