1966 Shovel engine rebuild

[ryan]

Thanks Ryan.
I appreciate you taking the time to have some input, and give tips garnered from your machining history.

For those that know what is involved, here's some industrial art. 3 jigs from the frame business. There are probably 25 or 30 jigs stacked in the shelves.


Anyone want to guess what the first jig is for.



Ignore the red arrow in the second picture. These pictures are from the machinists files and were used to was a prompt his memory on how to set up.






Cool huh!

Yes,very cool. The 2nd one is for the rear rigid frame casting, the last one is for the front lower frame casting and the first one still illudes me.

[Steve Little]

Decided to go the welding route.
Ground the side out of the hole to get the TIG electrode as close as possible to the other side, but ended up widening it a bit more to make room for the nozzle.









The kooky guy inside my head was trying to get me to cut the face down below that little bit of undercut. But after a short wrestle and quiet chat with ourselves we decided that it will be alright.



After a bit of file work and brass wire wheel in the die grinder, it should pass at a glance.

[Steve Little]

After blowing off the head I was about to wash it but decided to take another look. There looks to be a couple of dark areas on the head gasket surface and multiple scratch (file?) marks. I find that I spend half my time during a rebuild, undoing previous builders mischief.



Some coarse lapping paste and a quick couple of turns to see what a witness mark will tell me.



Yep! Some circle work is needed












Now that the mess is wiped up, I can get it in the parts washer.

[Steve Little]

That is cool, Steve! I'd like to see more. Always interesting to see what you've got going on!
Dale

Hi Dale.
Good to see your name come up on the screen.
Thanks for the encouragement and getting in here with us.
Steve

[ryan]

Steve,
Have you ever heard the saying, "just get out of your head and do it?" I have that issue quite often, for instance, why set up to machine what the hand can do. Ya get my drift?

Steve,
This quote was solely made about me, not anyone else. I should have clarified that more clearly.
Now about the fine work you are now doing, I would have never thought about using lapping compound to straighten out the head surfaces because I never use lapping compound on anything.
I think you did a wonderful job on welding and hand finishing your weld on the stud hole. Now here is where my quote and question lies: Are you going to set the head up on a sine plate with an angle plate to drill your hole or are you going to try to take the chance and try to just drill it by hand and hope for the best and maybe get lucky? I will guess the prior of the two, although I could be wrong.
I look forward to seeing more of your work Steve and thanks for sharing with us!

[Steve Little]

Howdy Ryan. I must have missed when you quoted the saying, but it applies to me as well.
Used my up-n-down moving, rotating thingamyjig vise to hold the head. It has some stool jacks underneath to help adjust and support it.
I wanted it to tilt, so I could clock the face of the exhaust flange, before drilling it for the stud.
It was fun chasing it for about half an hour, then a little trying for the next 20 minutes and downright frustrating for the next 15.

I got it to .002” on the X direction but couldn't get closer than .008” on the Y but that may be my hand filing of the welded area.
Got the center drill into the job before the wife called for dinner last night.
Pictures for your entertainment.







Check out the disapproving look of my Health & Safety officer. I'm sure I heard her mutter...Flimsy setup!

[BigLakeBob]

Steve,
I lost my safety officer last year, but she wasn't quite as boisterous as yours, she slept most of the time. I probably bored the heck out of her. I think your setup could be more rigid as you mention, but for a one off repair, do what needs done and move on. I made these drill jigs for hand drilling these shovel exhaust fixes quite a few years ago. Since your lathe is down and short of outside boring on a mill, 3 pins could have been put on a bolt circle simulating the diameter. Just another way of skinning the cat. Really enjoy your posts and progress you make. I spend more time on fixtures I hardly use twice.



Hope all is well. Bob

[Steve Little]

She's a good dog and has a wacky sense of humor. When I tell her to go outside before grinding, she will waddle toward the door, making a play growl noise looking left and right looking for something to nick. Usually it will be a glove, or piece of unwanted paper out of the bin. She will lay outside with it until I call her back in when I'm finished, and she will carry it back to me and drop it.

Chucked the 5/16" unc start tap and machine drove it half way in. Then continued to the bottom with the tap handle. Then chased it with a finish tap to 3/4 down. Then used Brakeclean to clean the hole and stud. Used Loctite 263 and tightened the stud down. I guessed the amount of protusion, using the gasket and a spare nut as a guestimation of the exhaust flange thickness. There are no inclusions in the weld and it has a beautiful thread.

[Steve Little]

Steve,
I lost my safety officer last year, but she wasn't quite as boisterous as yours, she slept most of the time. I probably bored the heck out of her. I think your setup could be more rigid as you mention, but for a one off repair, do what needs done and move on. I made these drill jigs for hand drilling these shovel exhaust fixes quite a few years ago. Since your lathe is down and short of outside boring on a mill, 3 pins could have been put on a bolt circle simulating the diameter. Just another way of skinning the cat. Really enjoy your posts and progress you make. I spend more time on fixtures I hardly use twice.

Hope all is well. Bob

Thanks for the alternative idea Bob. I was going lickity split today and hit the "Send" button before posting a thanks.
Had a time line in my head this morning and it included (drilling and taping exhaust, fit stud, wash head, wash valves and springs, check valve springs, check valve to seats, wash rocker boxes and rocker gear, set end tolerances, wash again, lube and fit, and fit cover to head. Got it done and washed my hands at 1/4 to 6.

[DaveAus]

Hope you're charging by the hour Steve

[ryan]

Steve,
Thanks for taking the time to share your progress, I really enjoy reading them. Great looking shop mate as well. I have a jet black cat that thinks she's a dog that always watches me do everything with great interest, she even plays fetch, crazy.
Do you have or use an Indicol for holding your indicator while indicating on your Bridgeport? If not they sure come in handy and are worth the investment for the name brand because the generics suck. They clamp to the Quill.

Here is a link to a picture an Indicol:

https://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/ima...0645151-24.jpg

I'm pretty sure you use a tap guide from getting to know your work, but for those who do not know what the center mark or dimple is used for on the top of a tap is, it is for the use of a tap guide. One can read up on their use.

Here is a link to a picture of a tap guide:

https://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/ima...9526747-24.jpg

What is wrong with your lathe Steve?

[ryan]

Bob,
Sorry to hear about the loss of your beloved pet, they have such a short life span while Napoleon's Tortoise is still living on Napoleon's exiled island.
Great looking jigs by the way. Have you ever thought about adding drill bushings to them? They come in different lengths and will guide your drill bit and tap to avoid any setups so you can use a hand drill with a drill stop. You will need one size for your drill bit and one size for your tap. The chosen bushings will have the same o.d., you just pop one bushing out and pop the other bushing in. You can even go as far as adding two cam locks to your jigs for use on each side of the head casting to lock the jig in place after finding your location. The cam locks look like and fit like dowel pins that are offset ground half way down and have an Allen head to rotate them.
All parts are only a few dollars and the machine work needed is to open up your locating hole for the drill bit bushings and drill two holes for the cam locks. Keep in mind that all holes must be drilled and reamed. I know one should not assume, but I assume if you took the time to make the jigs, you must use these jigs quite often.
These are only thoughts and I am by no means trying to tell you how to do your work because they look great.
Thank you!

[Steve Little]

Hope you're charging by the hour Steve

You put that wooden spoon down right now young man!!

Hi Ryan. Thanks for the links. I have a tap guide but don't have a Indicol.
I've seen them used on YouTube video's and like the concept, but haven't got around to purchasing one yet. Keep the good ideas coming.

Checked the valve springs to make sure everyone was pulling pulling the load.



The seals on this head would not fit. This one was too loose and the other guide was too large for the seal. I used the bit of round metal to hold the leading chamfer of the seal and crimped the contact ring area of the seals a bit deeper with the sharp area of my wire cutter pliers.

On the fatter guide I had to open the seal up. Did this by doing little pinching action around the ring of the seal. It worked like a metal spreader and the seal drove on the guide with nice tension.
The other head had normal guides and gave no problem with the seals.

[Steve Little]

Aimed the head the other way and gave the valve head a couple of BONK BONK's with the nylon hammer to make sure the collets are seated.



Fitted the rocker cover and tightened the nuts down to 120 inch lbs.



Wrapped it in cling warp.

What will we work on next. Cases or flywheels? Cast your vote.

[ryan]

Flywheels for my vote.