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  • #16
    Compensators are great, of course, Peter!

    But my extended experience with H-D's admirable clutch, and both kinds of sprockets, tells me that a solid sprocket shouldn't cause slippage in itself.
    Especially under normal duty, compared to sidecar duty, racing abuse, etc.

    And Folks, basket retainers are far from a 'gimmick'.
    Although the short throw of hand clutches limits the 'walk' of the basket side to side to a degree, they still allow the chain to flex sideways while the clutch is pulled.
    A footclutch can allow a great deal of sideways travel for the basket, wearing the chain on the sides of its links. I have found folks who fear they must rely on the pedal stuck heel-down instead of getting into neutral at a stop, accelerate this wear dramatically.

    They need more experience, or at least more money.

    A basket retainer, such as a "Tamer", alleviates this greatly.
    Most pedals had an extra hole for a pin to limit pedal travel between the edges of the bracket, thus limiting the side travel of the basket, but for some reason, few people used it.

    Even "The Big Fix" has its time and place: The long rollers can be used to bridge over wear tracks in baskets and upon hubs for more life.
    But neither of these innovations would cure a clutch slipping for other reasons.

    Electricnblue!

    Please make certain that there is some freeplay in your linkage between the rod end and the release lever over the transmission, so you are not riding on the throw-out bearing.

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 06-10-2017, 11:24 AM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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    • #17
      Last year I was in the final stages of assembling my 65 Pan and time was getting short before a run.
      I have 4 original clutch hubs that I've picked up at swap meets. If I was to use one of these I would have to replace broken fingers etc. Instead of going that route, I opted for a complete aftermarket clutch hub ( yes I know...feel free to slap me up the back of the head).
      Out of the box it looked great, and after a light lap of hub to shaft, I got them nicely acquainted.
      It fitted with very little bearing surface run out. I cleaned up some original plates and springs and from the very first gear change, it selected and changed like silk. Happy chappy. This was a new engine and trans and I'm gentle for the first 1000 miles, but at 400 miles my clutch started to grunt into first, hard first second changes, snatching at lights, and clutch slippage up hills during spirited acceleration. Snatching is normally a symptom of clutch plates hanging in wear ruts in clutch fingers, but I had a new clutch hub so it couldn't be my problem...right?
      I kept thinking I had the mousetrap adjusted wrong and redid it 3 or 4 times. I can report that at 1200 miles I have ruts ranging from 008” to 010” deep on each finger of this new hub. The dopes aren't hardening the fingers. This probably means that replacement fingers are also not hardened. The hub came from the company you have probably all guessed.
      Electricinblue this might not be your exact problem but it might help someone else.
      Steve
      Steve Little
      Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
      Australia.
      AMCA member 1950

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      • #18
        thanks for the info , will do some time in the garage and will post what I can find ,have 3 other running bikes but love my 67 . quick note ? the compensator takes some shock out of the drive train ????

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