clutch slip

[electricinblue]

help , rebuilt my 67 flh with 84 inch s&s flywheels , the increase in hoarse power at higher rpms causes clutch to slip , still have the mouse trap and don't want to add heavy springs , have heard of adding extra plate , any one with some input on this matter . ?????

[T. Cotten]

Golliy Electricnblue,

Wouldn't an extra plate be like heavy springs, at the same adjustment spec?

(My stroked Pan ate clutches as well, but that was my fault.)

....Cotten

[electricinblue]

yep not too happy with end results , live and learn ! still not that fast and vibrates like a stroker. but anyway if I adjust pressure plate to spec spring pressure shouldn't increase , yes/no?

[vph-d]

The stock clutch should handle the 84" motor without a problem. Take it apart to see what you have...
VPH-D

[T. Cotten]

yep not too happy with end results , live and learn ! still not that fast and vibrates like a stroker. but anyway if I adjust pressure plate to spec spring pressure shouldn't increase , yes/no?

Electricinblue!

As VPH-D posted, stock clutches were phenomenally good, when everything is in order.
And my Pan stroker was not only fast, it didn't "vibrate".

So beware, yours may have other issues,

....Cotten

[ryan]

Electricinblue!

As VPH-D posted, stock clutches were phenomenally good, when everything is in order.
And my Pan stroker was not only fast, it didn't "vibrate".

So beware, yours may have other issues,

....Cotten

I agree with the "So beware, yours may have other issues," Something may be off with the rebuild, that is.

[Rooster]

help , rebuilt my 67 flh with 84 inch s&s flywheels , the increase in hoarse power at higher rpms causes clutch to slip , still have the mouse trap and don't want to add heavy springs , have heard of adding extra plate , any one with some input on this matter . ?????

I have a '77 FLH, the motor has been built with the S&S "hot setup" 84-inch kit (along with other performance enhancing improvements). Sounds like you have the same.
I have no issues with the clutch, although I reassembled it with new Barnett 'wet-or-dry' friction discs and NOS steel plates.
Have you replaced the discs, or are they the same as before the motor build? Perhaps new friction discs are in order.....

[electricinblue]

I have taken the clutch out three times , cleaned the friction plates and clutch holds together for a few rides and then starts to slip again at higher rpms. parts are all original , I did remove the compensator and put solid sprocket in its place . was wondering if this is causing any issues ??? and I also am concerned about the rebuild the shop that did the rebuild screwed up a lot of things , like forgetting to tighten the head bolts and I blew head gaskets in the first 50 mi...unreal ... the shop has since closed

[duffeycycles]

I would try these...most non mousetrap shovels have more problems with release.If you are having oil on plates that is a problem for most friction material.These have groove like wet clutches
http://www.vtwinmfg.com/webapp/wcs/s..._143105_143107

[T. Cotten]

Electricnblue!

Before I threw money at it, I would be certain of a few things;
Not only should the friction discs be 'clean', but removing any glazing with coarse steel wool is prudent.

Please make certain that the steel plates are still flat. Irregular wear patterns, or discoloration are clues to warpage.

Since the clutch pack becomes shorter with wear, the service manual releasing disc measurement becomes arbitrary, even though there is lining left.
It is more critical that the releasing disc travels in and out squarely to the rest of the plates. It is perfectly fine to adjust the nuts un-evenly to accomplish this, although the culprit is more often an aftermarket releasing disc or faulty center adjustor bolt.

There is nothing wrong with tightening the adjustor nuts to where the releasing disc is more compressed than the manual, as long as your hand control still manages it comfortably.
I put a 9/16" wrench upon the tightened center adjustor bolt lock nut, and then check to see that I can easily turn the whole pack freely when the hand control has it dis-engaged.

And also, please make certain that excessive grease from the hub rollers is not compromising the clutch hub's lining.
Inspect all rivets to be certain that wear does not expose any to where it hits the steel plates or clutch basket.

Let us know if you find anything,

....Cotten

[ryan]

On my 69 FLHB sidecar bike, with a foot clutch and 3R tranny, I had to finally go with the original nos asbestos 3.5 clutches earlier setup from my 5 disk, aftermarket nonspring steels, aluminium pressure plate. I also run a 5 stud clutch hub with a plastic ram-jet clutch basket retainer. The adjustments to the clutch system were by the book and amazingly worked.
Now I have to change from the foot clutch to a non handlebar hand clutch and am debating on using a mousetrap or a mousetrap eliminator, 99% sure on the mousetrap, but that is a different story.
If you are having oil blow back between your clutches from the compensating chain oiler, Harley made a bolt on steel baffle plate, part number 60566-74, to deflect the oil from doing so, but cannot be added when the chain shoe is flipped for a lesser tooth compensating sprocket.
Again, I would really have your motor looked at or maybe even torn back down and looked at. I know you will be out labor, but better than being out parts and labor. Just my 2 cents.

Good luck and best wishes!

[T. Cotten]

Ryan!

I agree totally that a 4-plate clutch has proven for me to be superior for a hack, and a "basket retainer" is a great idea, (especially for a foot-clutch).

But after-market aluminum pressure plates are often hit-and-miss; You were lucky.

As far as the 5-stud gimmick, please consider: Would you rather level a table with three legs, or five?

...Cotten

[ryan]

Ryan!

I agree totally that a 4-plate clutch has proven for me to be superior for a hack, and a "basket retainer" is a great idea, (especially for a foot-clutch).

But after-market aluminum pressure plates are often hit-and-miss; You were lucky.

As far as the 5-stud gimmick, please consider: Would you rather level a table with three legs, or five?

...Cotten

Cotten,
Thanks for the info and the table analogy on the clutch hub. I bought the new 5 finger hub and ALU pressure plate off a guy really cheap a d decided to give them a try. I did not use the pressure plate stud with the ball bearing.

[Rubone]

I am a firm believer in 3 stud hubs and no gimmick crap (big Fix, Tamers, etc) and have never had an issue with everything from my UL w/SC to my stroker rigs. Proper chain alignment and proper adjustment are all you need. I run 5 plate '68 up type clutches and soft springs in everything, and have for 4+ decades..

[PRG]

Howdy chaps,

A key change being overlooked here is that he replaced his comp sprocket with a solid drive. Indian can't be admired for much if any innovation after the 20's but they did choose the right description for one of their last gasp efforts in 1950 with the intro of the 80 inch motor and their version of a compensator sprocket called the torque evenor. On a graph every undampened power pulse of a v twin causes a torque peak for which the clutch must designed to hold that spike or every incremental slip accumulates leading to general glazing. The clutch on that shovel was designed for a torque input buffered by cam operated comp sprocket on a chain primary or the 6 rubber puck on an FXSB. It will not work solid. To give you some idea of how dampening those primary pulses - or more evening them out as Indian once described it - can reduce the clamping pressure required, a solid drive 80 inch hot rod Chief requires pretty much all 16 springs on a Qua sintered bronze, with a torque evenor, 12. With a 74 inch motor on a Southern Products PowerFlow you can get by with 8. It's about breakaway stiction.