Lesson learned

[Grumpa]

Shovelhead re-build lesson learned the hard way #1,642:
If you replace all of your rocker box studs and you are ever tempted to buy the cheapest studs you can off of ebay.....DON'T. Why? Well they stretch and snap off before they reach the 180" lbs torque, that's why.

So now I'm going to take all of these nicely loctited cheap studs out and throw them as far into the forest as I can grrrrrrrr

[Robert Luland]

You sure that shouldn't be inch pounds?

[Grumpa]

Yes sir, it's inch pounds. " = Inch & ' = Foot

Any good suggestions for overcoming the Loctite? I really hate to use heat. I'm pretty sure my usual stud removal techniques aren't going to work with the cheap metal.

[wideglide38]

Might be able to finesse with little or low heat. Or you might try Kroil.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

[Grumpa]

You sure that shouldn't be inch pounds?

On reflection, maybe you were asking if I'm at the right torque which raises a good point. The HD service manual 1959-69 doesn't exactly give a lot of torque information, and I got 15'# from Donny Petersen's Unauthorized Technical Guide Vol 5 part 1 page 693.
15' x 12" = 180"#
Can anyone recommend a good source for torques?

As for the wrench, it has been calibrated in the past although it's out of cal atm. Possible cause and I'll keep it in mind but my guess is the cheap reproduction hardware. I should note that the short stud was NOS and I didn't have any problem getting torque on that one, only the long cheap ones. BTW designing studs with a smaller diameter shaft, while not unique to HD by any means isn't the best design in the world....just sayin.

[vph-d]

I once had a guy walk into the shop with a Shovel rocker box stud in his hand. He worked at a machine/screw shop in the Chicago-land area and knew it was a Harley part, and was curious where the stud was used. So I showed him on one of the new bike on the showroom floor.
VPH-D

[Grumpa]

Okay so the key so far has been hitting the center of the stud (lucky I have a drill block and bushings) and stepping up to a 19/64 and then using a #4 easy outIMG_3668.jpg

[Grumpa]

Back to where I was Friday, but with better studs and two Helicoils. I tested the other head with some temp nuts/washers at 160"# and it held so I'm going to leave well enough alone. I got the 160"# from the NAVAIR 01-1A-8 which is a military aircraft and missile engineering hardware manual.

Can anyone recommend a HD manual with reliable torques????IMG_3669.jpg

[BigLakeBob]

Unless it was in a mechanics manual, the regular shop manual never stated a torque for those nuts. I've always just tightened them with a good 'hand feel' and never had any issues. MO

[duffeycycles]

For comparison the fork slider cap nuts on late models[also 5/16"studs] are torqued to 108-156 inch pounds or 12-18 Neutered meters as are most nuts of that size.That would be more like 9 to 13 Ft lbs.10 should do fine

[Grumpa]

Unless it was in a mechanics manual, the regular shop manual never stated a torque for those nuts.

Thank you gentlemen. This was mostly a sanity check. "Donny's Unauthorized Technical Guide" had a range of torques (up to 22 - 25'# which I doubt is even possible for those studs) along with the statement "varies by manuals". My thought was wth is he referring to? Are there some HD manuals out there I'm not aware of??? So I thought I'd ask.

[duffeycycles]

3/8" bolts on late brake calipers go to 30lbs but not 5/16"..keep in mind that if there is no torque shown in old manuals it was by the feel as Bob said, but looking at other torque books can give you some sense of the required torque for a given fastener.