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I have a complete jockey top for a 4 speed transmission that I’m trying to disassemble. It seems to have the gear shifter cam shaft seized into the shifter cam. I don’t think the thing has ever been apart in all of its years and who knows where it’s been sitting before I got it. I have the unit on the work bench and when you spin the shifter cam as it normally would during its shifting of the gears, the shaft turns along with the shifter cam and is actually turning in the transmission cover at the shafts ends. I managed to remove the lock screw that holds the shaft into the case t after much penetrating oil and some heat but no luck getting the shaft out from there. The shaft really seems to be stuck in there. Any suggestion on how I might remove the shaft out of the shifter cam and transmission top under these circumstances? I am aware of the method of using an old long stem intake or exhaust valve(which I don’t have) to catch on the grooved end of the shaft and “drifting” the shaft out and I was hoping to not have to drill a hole in the other end of the case and trying to punch the shaft out from that side, I was hoping to leave the case intact (it’s a really nice case) Any other homemade tool ideas or old tricks or suggestions regarding this job from any of you guys will be appreciated
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I screwed with the one on my 48 for a month without getting it out. Finaly did the unthinkable. Drilled a 1/16" hole and drove it out in a heart beat. You don't even notice the hole is there. Bob L -
Go to your Snap On dealer and buy a CJ93B puller kit. This thing is so handy you'll find all kinds of uses for it. Anyway, the little finger adapter (upper left in the photo) slips in the groove on the shaft (you may need to grind it slightly thinner to fit), heat the cover and the slide hammer will pop the shaft right out ... PerryOriginally posted by zoomin View PostLast edited by Perry Ruiter; 03-13-2011, 04:36 PM.Comment
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Thanks for the response, what did you do with the hole after you got the shat out? Did you plug it with something?Originally posted by Robert Luland View PostComment
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That is a sweet puller! I was thinking about some kinda slide hammer deal but couldn’t think of what to put on the end, that Snap On set did give me an idea....... Thanks for the replyOriginally posted by Perry Ruiter View PostComment
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Just an update, I did finally get the shaft out. I had to go to the last resort and drilled a 5/32” hole in the case and got a long punch and punched the shaft out. I then tapped the hole and put a hex head set screw in the hole so it is flush with the case. Doesn’t look too bad but felt I had no other choice.I put the top back together temporarily (after cleaning all parts) and all the components seem to work o.k. together. The shaft is snug in the case and doesn’t try to spin along with the drum any more. I noticed that the spring that’s located between the case and the half gear that is connected to the shifter arm is broken and also the round ball that holds tension on the shifter drum detents is pitted and rough and I’ll need the little seal at the one end of the shaft. So I’ll be trying to locate these parts at very least but I think the shaft is o.k. Things inside the case just got rusty and a little pitted from sitting in a swamp or something. The thing fought me every inch of the way of disassembly but all in all I’m happy with the part. Here is a picture of the set screw i used to plug the hole I drilled in the case.Last edited by zoomin; 03-27-2011, 10:04 AM.Comment
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Don't forget the leather seal on the shifter shaft. I just use a regular o-ring on the drum shaft. I've never been able to get the square one in without ripping it apart. Bob LComment
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Good idea on the o-ring Mr. Luland, I did remeber the leather washer-seal. I've been looking up parts, gonna call the local dealerships first to give them the first shot at it and i kinda enjoy watching the young guy behind the parts counter flip back and forth through his old parts book, if no luck there, then the parts appear to be available aftermarket.Comment
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The manual recommends using the edge of an old ex./int. valve to catch the groove on the shifter drum shaft. I tried that and it is a good idea, but it didn't work. I drilled a hole in the housing and drifted the shaft out.Eric Smith
AMCA #886Comment
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Do you guys recognize this Jockey Top in the first two photos as an original Harley part? If so what’s its application? It appears to be the correct mid 1950 to 1964 die-cast type in its shape. Palmers book says on the inside of the top there should be raised casting numbers of 33-49 like in the third photo on a different top I have. The top in question, photos 1 and 2, has no markings on the inside but has the numbers 33-49 and EST on the outside rear edge of the top on the bolt holes flange that you can see in the second photo.Last edited by zoomin; 03-27-2011, 04:13 PM.Comment
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There are no date codes on the die cast parts.Be sure to visit;
http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/Comment
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There are no date codes on the top in question; there are cast lines or flashing on the exterior of the top. The shifter drum has the number 2243-36 stamped on it which seems to be the correct Harley shifter drum for late 1940 to 1976 four speed handshift transmissions. I just didn’t know about the location of those numbers being on the outside along with the letters EST. I can’t seem to find any information on this style of top. Could this be a very late model Jockey Top from Harley ?Comment
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Yours is a common shift lid used from about 1950 to 1959 or so when HD added a neutral switch and then towards the end of the hand shifters they used a ratchet type lid only with none of the ratcheting mechanism but just the lever like this one.
JerryComment
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