64 FLH clutch drag

[scoot]

I have adjusted my clutch 3 times this week and still can’t seem to get it right. When the bike is cold, I can move the clutch lever a half inch with one finger and disengage it. When hot (30 miles or so), it takes a herculean effort to bottom the lever out to the grip and it still drags. I’m running a BDL belt in an enclosed primary with the original clutch plates. I also exchanged the original needle bearings for the multiple long ones without the cage. I cleaned and measured the thickness of the clutch plates to be within spec. Do these things swell up with heat or do I have something else going on.

[Robert Luland]

Scoot, I gave up on the junk years ago. First off the long bearing sound dandy. Wrong. With out a cage they don’t rotate. The drum just simply rotates around them. Even if you lubricate them (Which will last about three days). I hate belt drives! They have left me stuck so many times. The early belts were to short and you ended up having to file the shifter top to pull the tranny closer. My understanding is that the new belts are made to length to rid this problem. My own experience has been that the cords in the belt shrink when they get hot. Keep in mind that the drum and sprocket also exspand when they get hot. It sounds like your problem and it’s pulling the drum. Try this. Check the belt tension when its cold. Put the primary cover back on with a couple of screws and go for a spin. Stop and recheck the tension. It’s my guess that you will find the belt tighter than a couple on New York City lawyers. Bob L

[scoot]

I pulled everything apart and it definitely appears to have been caused by the long needle bearing “fix”. I can feel noticeable drag when rotating the clutch by hand. Not sure where all the grease disappeared to. The Main seal on my trans is blown too. I can only attribute that to the excess heat built up by the useless bearings. I’m trying to figure out why I swapped to a belt drive in the first place… The belt with the original style caged bearings would cause the pulley to hit the inner primary when the clutch was pulled in. The long needle bearings made it run true with the clutch pulled in but now it’s causing all of these other issues. The weather is in the 70’s and I am sick of not riding. I think I’m going to bite the bullet and spring for a Barnett clutch. Any thoughts?

http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...e=BI&prod_id=4

What options do I have for aftermarket primary chains?

[Robert Luland]

Scoot I highly doubt that the clutch plates are causing the problem. If the main bearing seal is gone I would have to say the main gear bushing is gone also. I don’t know how tight the belt drive directions tell you to make it but if it’s too tight, kiss the main gear bushing good bye. Keep in mind there was a reason for the MC to install a main shaft support bearing in 65-up beside just electric start. Also what condition is the clutch hub and drum race in? Do you have a lot of play without the plates in? If you’re willing to go for the bread, go look at the clutch assembly that Rivera makes. You got something more than clutch plate playing into this. Keep your eye on the belt tension Scoot. Bob L

[scoot]

It looks like I lost trans fluid out every hole possible, main seal, ratchet top, clutch rod bushing. Only thing I can figure is this case isn’t venting. I decided to go with the Rivera clutch with a diamond chain and my original compensator sprocket. I guess it’s hard to beat the original setup.
Thanks for the input

[Robert Luland]

I believe that the way the Harley trans is designed it vents all the time. Just look at the normal slap in the kicker bushings and the clutch activation shaft but to be sure pull the funny looking screw on the ratchet top on the kicker side and make sure the little hole isn’t blocked. Over filling will give you the same affect. Bob L

[Lonnie]

As you discovered the "Big Fix" seems to have caused some of the problems you have experienced. What you should have used is called "The Tamer" which will solve the problem. These, if installed properly, will eliminate the wobble that causes the clutch drag you reference. There is a description of The Tamer at this webpage:

http://www.dragspecialties.com/pdfs/DS-194990.pdf

We have had to machine out the bottom of the aluminum hubs in order to allow enough room for everything, when using 1-1/2 BDL systems.

The biggest problem with a belt drive is running the belt too tight. On all mine, we have had to machine the slots longer in the transmission mounting plate to get enough slack. Only on the bike with the transmission raised 1-inch have I had to grind slightly on the trans top cover since the raised trans was hitting the seat post. When properly adjusted it seems that the belts are too loose. Beware a too-tight belt as it will cause the transmission mainshaft seal leakage that is mentioned as well as potentially damaging the bearings in both the trans and the motor.

You must also verify 100% alignment with the belt. A chain drive is very forgiving of misalignment of the motor and trans, a belt is not.

We modify the vent tubes to vent straight down, they do not enter the primary.

Properly set up, you will have no problems. I have had them on seven bikes without issue. I have three in service now with the enclosed tin primaries, which do not seem to have excessive heating issues even here in the South in the summer. I have a fourth system that will go in a vented aluminum primary ('66 FLH) in process. I will use a chain drive on the '76 FLH I am rebuilding only to use up all the parts I have.

Just take your time and verify everything as you go.

Either way, enjoy the ride.

[vph-d]

I had a similar problem on 2 Pans with enclosed belt drives. As mentioned, belt alignment is crucial. If your belt is too tight, even with proper alignment, the clutch will be ok until the belt/ pulleys warm up. Once things warm up, you need two hands to try to make the clutch handle pull in, and the clutch WILL not disengage.
VPH-D

[billpedalino]

This is what works for me:

I've been running a belt drive on my '79 shovelhead stroker for about 10 years now. It has stock clutch plates and springs and the clutch holds just fine under load, as I'm well past the hole-shot age. But it doesn't slip or give me any trouble under long, hard pulls on the expressway.

As discussed above, belt-sprocketalignment is critical. Also, I set the belt at 3/4" loose when cold, as it certaily does tighten up when hot. I use the OEM-type caged clutch hub bearings. Also, the outer primary cover is vented to allow airflowto help minimize additional tightening of the belt due to excessive heat.

Finally, the 'Tamer' certainly does work, especially on clutch drum/clutch hub assemblies that are starting to age. Even with a new fiber plate riveted to the hub, many drums do wobble when correctly installed. If the Tamer is installed properly, this wobble can be reduced considerably, thereby reducing the running drag on the clutch plates when the clutch is disengaged.

I don't have a Tamer installed in my restored 1947 FL, but its a foot clutch and the disengagement swing is substantial and it doesn't drag when disengaged. However, I do plan to use a Tamer when assembling my AMCA-quality restored 1953 FLE next year.

[indianut]

I have run a belt with the long rollers and the Ram-Jet (Sifton) plastic retainer for many, many thousands of trouble free miles. I keep the belt loose and in alignment.