linkert m74b float level

[scoot]

I rebuilt my m74b and changed the float to a Durable while setting the float level at ¼” as per the manual. I noticed that the original foam float level was set close to ½”. When I fired it up it was way too rich even with both needles bottomed out. I pulled the carb apart again and changed from a 19 to a 17 jet. It runs great once it starts, however the needle and seat will not shut off fuel when the bike is on the Jiffy stand. Fuel just pours out the vent. When upright, it seals perfect. The needle and seat have been tested good by turning it upside down and sucking on the fuel line. Do I need to set the float level at greater than a ¼”?
Thanks

[Sargehere]

Shouldn't fail to seal, even on the jiffy stand. That's probably what I'd try first, tho: just lower the float a little at a time. As long as it's not starved while running, it will work. Check the "centering" of your float very carefully (slightly off-center, per manual) and that the brass pivot mechanism doesn't have too much wobble. Seems like something's keeping the float from coming all the way up and closing. Is the jiffy stand allowing the bike to lean over unusually low? Just that it shouldn't do that, overflow on the jiffy stand.

[Sargehere]

What kind of float you got in dere? Shoulda axed that first.

[T. Cotten]

Scoot!

All DURABLE Linkert float replacements are to be set to book spec: 1/4"

And frankly, a ruler is accurate enough, but make it level.

(My "Ultralights" may provide performance and mileage benefits from a higher setting, however feedback from volunteer testers has been apparently,.. uh,.. 'sidetracked'.)

So Scoot,
Let us first dismiss extraneous variables:
You did bubbletest the manifold assembly, right?
(And since we might presume this is a Pan, did you test each pan cover screw over each intake port?)
Please review http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html, if you have not.

I ask this because a machine that "runs rich" most often must be adjusted that way... because a vacuum leak will not let it run at all, any other way.

On to the overflow problem,
I, too, bench-test a valve by turning the whole assembly upside down, and sucking upon it.
I like when it makes a pop when I pull my tongue off. And it takes many trials, over, and over, to be certain that slop on the pivot, or the condition of the lever's three fingers do not allow an occasional hang-up.

Its been about thirty-six hours since the last one gave me fits just getting the right place for the screw within the eye of the lever, as for some reason it kept hanging the float upon the HS needle.
'Off-set' didn't seem to matter.
But with patience, I found the sweetspot where it sealed even without a gasket.

Didn't make flat-rate on that one.
But I encourage you to persevere as well.

There are more than a few other variables to consider, but lets take those first.

....Cotten
PS: Its not a rubber needle is it?

[flat-happy]

i had a linkert throwing fits last year and it turned out that the previous owner had replaced both needle adjusters with a ser from another cark because the wheels were in better shape. when i finally got the old ones from him one was 1/16 inch shorter and the other nearly 1/4 inch shorter. turned all the way in they would not seat

[Robert Luland]

"On to the overflow problem,
I, too, bench-test a valve by turning the whole assembly upside down, and sucking upon it.
I like when it makes a pop when I pull my tongue off"

And you got the nerve to talk about the filth on my keyboard!

[T. Cotten]

"On to the overflow problem,
I, too, bench-test a valve by turning the whole assembly upside down, and sucking upon it.
I like when it makes a pop when I pull my tongue off"

And you got the nerve to talk about the filth on my keyboard!

You left out the over-and-over part. That's important.


...Cotten

[scoot]

Thanks for all the replies. I performed the manifold pressure test two weeks ago and the only bubbles I had were from a slightly loose spark plug. I pulled the carb apart again and inspected the float assembly. Everything seemed to have good range of motion without contacting the side of the bowl. I pulled the floats pivot pin out and it was considerably corroded even though it didn’t seem to affect operation. I installed a new brass pin and reassembled. The carb is now working like a champ. Not a single drop of fuel leaking and it actually is starting easy again. Now a new engine problem after a 30 mile ride this weekend. When turning the engine over slowly with the spark plugs removed, a subtle squeak occurs at one point in the revolution. It also does it using the rear tire to turn the engine over so it’s not the kicker pedal. This pan only has 40 miles since the rebuild. I checked oil flow and it is more than adequate. It definitely didn’t have that sound before the ride and I wouldn’t think it is normal during the break in process. I guess it’s back to the machine shop this weekend.

[cheifrider]

to tight?

my chief had that same "squeek"noise when it was new , i JUST came up out of the basement 15 min ago ,after tearing the barrels off the same bike . it certainley needs pistons top end job etc. the thing only has 2100 miles on a complete motor restoration. i believe the motor was put together to "tight"........whatever!anyways i would be REAL careful about running it to hard to early ,good luck ,tom

[bmh]

Now a new engine problem after a 30 mile ride this weekend. When turning the engine over slowly with the spark plugs removed, a subtle squeak occurs at one point in the revolution. It also does it using the rear tire to turn the engine over so it’s not the kicker pedal.

Does the squeak occur at the same point in the motors rotation every revolution? Every other revolution? Is it only once per revolution? Could be a lot of things, tight tappet roller, piston scuff, primary chain and on and on. Go out and get a mechanics stethoscope and start listening for it while turning it over and pay attention to where you are at in the combustion cycle when it occurs and you should get an idea of what's happening and where.

[Magic]

I dunno

I've been hearing the faint squeek/squeal myself for 30yrs while fine tuning the ignition timing on several Models...I've put it off as nothing as long as there was no binding and when the engine runs all is fine. New rebuilt engines ofcourse are another subject as many non OEM parts are used nowadays inplace of. The float pin discovery was a good fine and yea it doesn't take much to stick a float from doing it's job under all conditions. I'm curious if the noise in my head these years is what you heard too...no kidding, Keep riding them you lucky people out there that aren't looking at another snow storm coming to your area. Merlin in Pa

[koanes]

Dry points cam in the distributor? I had a Panhead that squeeked when the points opened, a little lube and the noise was gone.

[scoot]

That is a good point about the point’s cam. I didn’t realize it could squeak but I guess anything is possible. What type of lube is recommended? I picked up a mechanics stethoscope yesterday, but I didn’t have a second set of hands to turn it over while I listened. The machine shop wants me to pull the primary so I’m turning over just the engine, but that is quite a bit of work considering I have to pull the exhaust and floor boards again. I hate redoing things several times while working with fresh paint.

[bmh]

I wouldn't take nothin apart just yet, just cause it ain't in the motor don't mean it should be neglected. You can cover the right side of the bike pretty well by yourself if you turn her over with the kicker in your left hand and the scope wand in the other. Of course it would be better to have a second person so you could roll back and forth over the squeaky spot, but you can eliminate some things like points and tappets real quick by your lonesome. As for grease on the points, use dielectric grease available at the auto parts store. Only put a dab on the cam to lube the rub block, to much will make a mess and can foul your points.

[scoot]

Thanks tons Koanes. You just saved me a ton of work. It was definitely my points that were making all the noise. I’m still shocked at how well that sound traveled through the motor.