Need mousetrap help

[OldHog66]

I probably should have paid more attention to how things were set up when I took it all apart..but... my hindsight it 20/20.

My 66 has been retrofitted to a 5 disk clutch pak, but it worked well (with the mousetrap) before disassembly. I have the clutch pak adjusted at 1 1/32 as described in the book and when the clutch is pulled, the rear wheel is not free...but i can 'bump' it and turn it so the clutch is mostly released and should be close to correct adjustment.

I kind of have a reverse scenario of how the mousetrap is supposed to work (I think). I don't have the handlebar lever attached, but when I move the mousetrap off of top dead center by hand, it pulls the clutch in without further assistance, then of course, it requires some pressure (not a lot) to re-engage the clutch and reset the mousetrap to top. I'm thinking if it all was working correctly, the pressure of the clutch springs should pull the mousetrap back into the top locked position. I have the same mousetrap spring as before disassembly and have it adjusted as loose as possible. I did powdercoat the spring while I had it all apart, and that could be causing it to be "stronger" than before?

I have two articles on adjusting the mousetrap and clutch rod, but i'm not making progress. Is there anybody willing to get on the phone and talk to me about it? if so, you can private message me with a phone or I'll give you mine if more convenient.

I'm stuck....

[MJW]

mousetrap

old hog, I think you're shooting for 31/32" on the clutch springs, Like you sayrthough the clutch springs should pull the trap back to "just past center". at this point the lever cable should be at it's longest point, lever fully open, so when you squeeze the lever the mousetrap goes "over center" as the mousetrap spring helps counter act the clutch springs. So if the trap stays over center without the help of the hand lever, you have too much spring tension on the booster, or not enough on the clutch springs...Mike

[Rubone]

The 1 1/32 is fine for the spring pack on a 5 plate clutch with the late springs. If you do not have full disengagement that is an issue with the push rod adjustment, not the springs or mousetrap. Set that correctly first. If you have a manual follow it exactly and all will work. If you do not have a manual you have no business messing with things until you acquire one.
Robbie

[OldHog66]

Rub,
I've got two manuals and and a separate printout on Mousetrap adjustment from another source. Obviously I'm not getting it quite right

[Rubone]

It is pretty well covered in the '66 rider handbook. A critical part of it is the push-rod adjustment as well as the angle of the clutch arm in the relaxed position. Do those without the mousetrap connected. You can disengage the clutch with a box wrench on the clutch arm nut out the right side. see that you have enough movement to fully disengage the clutch pack. The clutch arm need to clear the inner chaincase by 1/4 inch when the pushrod is adjusted properly That measurement is with the slack out (arm pulled forward until it contacts the pushrod).
Before attaching the pull rod make sure the bellcrank is able to go the 1/8th inch overcenter, adjust the pullrod for 1/8th inch free play, adjust the cable for 1/2 inch play at the lever. If the booster spring is too tight the lever will stay in (dis-engaged), only loose the adjustment until the hand lever comes back out on its own. Make sure all the pivot points and the cable are well lubed BEFORE the adjustment.
Good Luck,
Robbie

[OldHog66]

Rub, more clarificaiton please...

Rub,
Read your response several times while looking at the manual. a few specific questions for clarification.
A critical part of it is the push-rod adjustment as well as the angle of the clutch arm in the relaxed position.

What do mean by "angle" of the clutch arm? It moves back and forth but i don't see any way to change what I percieve the term angle?

You can disengage the clutch with a box wrench on the clutch arm nut out the right side. see that you have enough movement to fully disengage the clutch pack.

The clutch arm, if you turn it far enough by box wrench, will stop by hitting the oil tank mounting tab. I don't know how far the arm moves (yet) by hand lever, as it is not yet connected., but i dont' think it will go that far?

The clutch arm need to clear the inner chaincase by 1/4 inch when the pushrod is adjusted properly That measurement is with the slack out (arm pulled forward until it contacts the pushrod).

the rearward motion of the arm is limited by hitting the starter motor housing, I think I understand what you mean, if I can put it in car terms. it is freeplay...1/4" from where the lever hits the starter motor to where it contacts the push rod as it comes forward?

Before attaching the pull rod make sure the bellcrank is able to go the 1/8th inch overcenter, adjust the pullrod for 1/8th inch free play,

I think I get this now. what i think i'm reading from you is that the clutch will "push" the moustrap back over top dead center, and that 1/8" inch where it snaps into locked position then gives you about 1/8 " of freeplay in the rod/clutch arm assembly?

Does all of that sound right?

adjust the cable for 1/2 inch play at the lever. If the booster spring is too tight the lever will stay in (dis-engaged), only loose the adjustment until the hand lever comes back out on its own. Make sure all the pivot points and the cable are well lubed BEFORE the adjustment.
Good Luck,
Robbie

[OldHog66]

I Got It!

Seems to be adjusted !!
Won't know the real truth until I engage the starter and see if it holds!

Thanks all!