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  • #16
    Jerry has good advice. Properly assembled and maintained star hubs will last forever. The timken conversion has no advantage, other than repair of races damaged beyond service from neglect. Another alternative to the timken fix is to have the races resurfaced. AMCA member Lee Armatige offers this service and does very nice work at a reasonable price.
    Kyle Oanes AMCA # 3046

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Glenn View Post
      the hubs I have when taken apart have no pitting were full of grease. when apart all the rollers are in perfect shape, I'm thinking of just getting the seal kit and go from there. or should I just get the bearings anyway
      To properly size new rollers, you need to accurately perform a 'plug fit'. To do this, you need to have a variety of oversize rollers on hand. You can jump through all those hoops, and end up discovering that the original standard size .250" rollers are what you need for a correct fit, after all.

      One word of caution--- be very careful not to mix rollers from one side to another. It could be that the brake side rollers are already oversized while the star side is not. Mixing different sized rollers will destroy your hub in short order.
      Another way to destroy a hub is to go ahead and put oversize rollers in, just because they will fit. Yes, there's a good chance they will fit, but will not provide proper clearance as specified. Palmer describes the 'plug-fit' procedure very well; however, it is in the motor section, and he is providing clearance numbers for the crankcase roller bearings, not the wheel hub. The reader must use the mathematical formula provided, but insert the clearance values as given in the wheel hub section.

      You're lucky the hub has no pitting, but even some minor pitting is not the end of the world; it will just make the wheel a little noisy. Severe pitting, on the other hand, is a problem.

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