Hey guys before I start taking too much apart on my 1965 FLH I'll ask of others experiences with my problem. My battery was getting old and when I tried to start it this Spring it didn't have enough power to turn the engine over even after a few slow kicks to loosen her up. ( I do use Battery tenders) It did start however and I used a jumper cable on it to encourage it to start with a booster charger. I purchased a new battery for it and upon connecting the battery there was an arc and draw of power with the ignition switch off. It was more than a little arc so I never connected it. My first thought is the ignition switch itself... The power arc drawn was significant as to use of the electric starter however it didn't engage. Curious as to the thoughts on something that was fine before and now a new battery arcs when connecting it? Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions made. I'm busy doing non-Motorcycle activities that I'm swamped with work. Merlin in Pa.
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Thanks 4 the replies before my fingers get dirty
Originally posted by Rooster View PostI'd say to look at the starter solonoid switch. They need to be taken apart and cleaned up and lubed every so often.
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At last a question a "newbie" can answer!
The solenoid always has power to one side, and the starter button engages it by grounding and completing the circuit. The main ignition switch interrupts the grounding when it is in the off position, and allows it when "on".
The two most likely causes of the condition described would be the wires to the starter button itself allowing a contact to ground *before* they get to the main ignition switch or the solenoid being partially mechanically engaged and somehow grounding the circuit itself.
The latter seems unlikely, but is possible, which is why you should never open the primary cover without disconnecting the battery ground cable, eliminating the possibility you'll accidentally ground the solenoid and engage the starter while your fingers are in the mix.
P.S. -- all of the above assumes that you're saying the bike tried to start when you went to connect the battery. If it's just an arc, then either the positive battery cable is grounding out (e.g., worn insulation somewhere allowing contact to bare metal between the battery and the main switch) or the main switch is broken and not disconnecting the circuits when you turn it "off". Ordinarily you'd connect the positive cable first, and then the negative, and nothing happens because the ignition switch being "off" is interrupting the completion of the connection of the entire circuit back to ground.Ride it like you can fix it!
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JSB55,
You are missing the mechanical aspect of it. The most common cause of solenoid sticking isn't the electrical part. It is a jammed starter drive locked to the ring gear which in turn keeps the contacts connected in the solenoid. The solenoid can also be full of oily gunk and the piston is stuck. Common on all kinds of vehicles and usually caused when trying to start with a low battery. I have seen it on everything from lawn mowers to trucks. Often just rocking the vehicle in gear releases it and once the battery is charged all is good.
RobbieRobbie Knight Amca #2736
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Thanks 4 the replies before my fingers get dirty
Thanks Rub as well as everyone else that offered logical advice. This Motorcycle was parked in and finally went for a nice summer evening ride when it cooling down out there LOL Yes it needed a rocking in gear and that did the trick. I like this motorcycle alot and just ignored it for too long :-/ I hope tonite is just as nice as last night :-) Merlin in Pa.
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Back in 89 when my 65fl still had a virgin wiring system I had a problem one hot day. When I turned off the ignition, the wiring around the key switch started to burn, like there was a short. When I turned the key back on, it stopped. The problem turned out to be the neutral switch. It is a two wire switch that is right in the starter circuit. Mine had shorted out to ground.
If yours is that way it would have caused the sparks when you tried to hook up a new battery.
My bike has a cross over exhaust and that switch is right under the pipe, I think over the years it just got hot one too many times and the bakelite or whatever the insulator is made out of just failed. I still have the switch, it had some really strange connectors with some little wire retainers.
After I replaced the switch, everything was fine again, plus I added a main breaker and a relay like the factory bulletins called for.
Might be worth checking out.
UnderdoggieJohn Underwood
AMCA#14400
Central Illinois
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Or flip the disc over.Be sure to visit;
http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/
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More good advice being offered... Thanks
Thanks for the professional advice on this matter and I will ...when I get the chance again LOL Go at the Solenoid and clean it lub it. I'm more into the Hydra/Duo-Glides and this is another good learning experience for me. Merlin in Pa.
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Looks like everyone has chimed in with good advice. As for me - never had this problem on my '65, but did have it on my first year Goldwing. Solenoid plunger was stuck after 85k miles (yes, all mine). Simply had to disassemble and lubricate and all was fine.
The characteristic was as soon as the ignition was turned on the starter motor was running.Ray
AMCA #7140
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