Star Hub question

[JSB55]

Hi Again, Guys

Working on reassembling a star hub, which I haven't done in many years, so something has me stumped.

After reassembling the left side (only) I find that the hub inner sleeve is completely bound up tight and will not spin. My rollers and bearing cage are liberally greased, and everything is in the correct sequence.

The inner sleeve turns freely until I insert the cork grease seal. Once the cork is in there, the sleeve will neither turn nor move from side to side.

I use the word "insert" loosely here, as in fact it takes about ten minutes of hand forcing, cursing, and finally considerable pressure from the side of a screwdriver blade to get that cork seal seated, and it seems like it's way too big. At that point, even before putting in the outer washer and snap ring, the hub inner sleeve will no longer move at all. No rotation, and no side to side movement.

That doesn't seem correct to me, but maybe I'm mistaken and forgetting something. I think, however, that I just have a bum set of cork seals (aftermarket stuff, of course).

With everything disassembled, I can slide the cork seal over the end of the hub inner sleeve and it's tight, but not to the point of preventing turning it, so I'm thinking the problem is that the outside diameter of the cork seal is oversize and needs to be shaved down.

Can somebody help me out here?

John

[Robert Luland]

One key point is to first build the hub up "dry" and set the end play. Then take it apart and grease her up. Also if you are replacing the cork grease retainer on the brake side of the hub remember that the new ones are thick and also affect the end play. It takes a hundred miles or so for the cork to get compressed. If replacing the cork grease retainer I will leave that side of the hub loose while setting the end play on the other side, (sometimes take a third hand). When you get a hundred or so miles on it re-check the end play.

I remembered this from a while back. Hope it helps

[JSB55]

Ya, I just saw that other thread, too, and had been wondering in advance if maybe the cork seals needed time to wear in and compress before you could take accurate measurements.

I initially took the hub apart just to clean it up and check things out, but in doing so I found that the old cork seal had broken into three pieces.

To those familiar with the process, does the amount of forcing I'm having to do to install the new cork seal sound normal? And is it common for it to bind so tightly at first that the inner sleeve won't turn by hand?

Since the old cork seal was broken, and the spacers were a bit warped and had some rust on them, I have no idea if I'm anywhere close on end play.

Thanks!

John

[Rooster]

I've done my share of star hubs, and if I can't find NOS corks, I use the ones that James makes (JGI-43571-35, & JGI-43570-35). Although new corks are tight, I've never has the trouble you describe. I always do the brake side first, then flip the wheel over and do the star side, leaving out the cork seal to set end play. Yes, the cork on the other side makes the inner sleeve tight to move back and forth, but should still be able to move. End play should set at .003" - .005". All this is done dry, then taken apart and greased up when endo is set. Once greased and assembled, still need to pump an ounce or more of grease into the hub.

[JSB55]

Thanks for the input.

Maybe my problem is I'm using the cork seals V-Twin sells...

Seems like every time I buy any of their stuff, I find they were pretty fast and loose with things like measurements and quality control.

===========

UPDATE: by trimming a RCH at a time off the outside diameter of the cork, I managed to get it to where it's a tight fit into the hub, rather than a brute force fit. The inner sleeve will now slide sideways (i.e., end play) but still requires some force (pushing on it with two fingers) to get it to move.

It still won't allow the inner hub sleeve to turn, however, which concerns me.

Is this going to wear in over time, or should I take it apart and trim some more off the outside diameter of the cork?

Thoughts, anyone???

[flat-happy]

one thing that you might have done is distort the cork so it has thick and thin places in it. should not use a screwdriver it install---take the hub to the local hardware store and go to the isle with the PVC pipe fittings and find a coupling that is the right diameter----i think it is 1 1/2 inch----and push it in straight---it will cost about 50-75 cents for this. i have different sizes for all seals and they work better that the seal drivers i have.

[JSB55]

Yup, I already have several homemade race and seal installers that are nothing but PVC bushings of the correct diameter for the job and cost a whole .79 each.

Pretty sure that this cork was out of round before I even started... after some trimming, I got it down to a size that will allow a force fit install.

Still a little troubled by the fact I have to use both thumbs and press *hard* to get lateral movement to measure end play, and the fact the inner sleeve won't spin.

I know the cork donut is a *seal*, which has to be in there tight to do its job, but it doesn't seem right that it should bind up the inner sleeve so tight it won't spin.

[Rooster]

With the hub totaly rebuilt with new cork seals, you still should be able to rotate the inner sleeve by hand. Try removing the cork seal (much as I hate to suggest it) and see if the inner sleeve will then turn freely. That will tell you if it's the cork causing the binding, or if you need to go back into the hub. If the cork is the problem, seek out some of the James corks. Heck, PM me your address, I'll mail you a set.

[Rooster]

After a little more thought, try removing a couple of the shims-- see if that frees up the sleeve. You'll still have to properly set the end play.

[JSB55]

It's definitely the cork... the inner sleeve binds up tight even with only the brake side of the hub assembled.

When I went to assemble the right side, I found the paper star gasket also laughably misshapen, so I'm tearing it all out and starting over with a new set of seals and gasket.

If those are just as bad, I'll take you up on your offer. Thanks!

[Rooster]

Palmer offers a good walk-through on the hubs, page 102-103.

[JSB55]

OK ... I give up. The set from V-Twin is every bit as bad as the ones from Mid-USA.

Thanks for your offer, Rooster. See my PM to you.

Meanwhile, if anyone can point me to a source for the NOS or James corks, that would be appreciated, too, as I want to buy a couple sets to have on hand.

[Rooster]

I've gotten a lot of star hub parts from 'Bags' at Into 'The Wilderness'. You'll see the James corks on this page, you can buy them in packs of 10:

http://www.itwtrading.com/1936-1966StarHub.html

[JSB55]

Perfectamundo! Thanks!

[JSB55]

Well, per Rooster's suggestion, I got in touch with ITWtrading and was able to get the James Gasket cork seals and star gaskets, and some USA made snap rings and shims.

Perfect size and fit, all the holes correct size, shape, and placement, and no struggle at all to get the corks into place and the snap rings seated.

What a difference vs. the Taiwan-made crap!

John