lifter base needed

[Glenn]

50 pan the rear lifter base has part of the bottom of the base broken off. Anyone have a rear lifter base they want to sell ?

looks like previous owner put it back together with the broken base. I found no metal inside the block anywhere. Oil pump housing has virtually no marks in it.

[Robert Luland]

Glenn, Got cast or aluminum?

[Glenn]

it is aluminum

[T. Cotten]

The most common cause for a broken lifter base is from using it to over-tighten the lock nut, instead of putting a second wrench upon the adjustor.

Many can be weld-repaired.

...Cotten

[Glenn]

the whole underside guide part is broken and not anywhere to be found. The previous owner must have put it together broken. The bike has been sitting since 1964 in the second owners garage.

Hope someone has one burried somewhere they would sell. Everything else in the motor other than the cam is in good shape.

[Robert Luland]

Glenn you got a message.

[koanes]

I have a cast iron rear block I have been trying to find a mate for, going on 25 yrs. I have held other rear blocks but have never seen a front. Does anyone have timeline for the use of the iron blocks?

[Glenn]

thanks guys found a set of aluminum block from robert above thanks for all you efforts

glenn

[bmh]

Cotton, The original solid tappets as used with the aluminum blocks do not have flats on the body to hold with a wrench when tightening jamb nuts. I will adjust the pushrod and then roll the motor foward to put pressure from the valve springs on the tappet to help hold it and take some stress off the ears on the block. As long as you are runnning the stock pushrods with the hydraulic units up top any slight movement on the adjustment wont really matter. Solids on the other hand may need some fine tuning re-adjustments to get just right. This also helps avoid dinging up the top edge of the blocks with the wrench that you see on so many aluminum blocks.