'64 FL rebuild questions

[DanMargolien]

Hi all! A little advice would be appreciated:
1) Do I need a special tool to pull the cam needle bearing from the case? Any tips?
2) When replacing the circuit breaker gear stud in the case, is there anything special to do to ensure it is square?
3) Do the oil pump feed and scavenge gears wear? Is it worth replacing them as a matter of course?
4) What has been found to be the "best" aluminum paint for the cylinders? I want it to last. What experience does anyone have with the Eastwood powdercoating system? They offer a high temp silver.
5) I have an adjustable rake front fork. There are 2 special "washers" that hold the fork in the front or rear of the rake slot in the lower tree. The one's I removed were loose, and they looked like stamped formed egg shaped washers with ears. A replace ment part for the part number in my book came as a flat plate with a stud peened on. But the centerline distance of the stud to bolt hole is to long for the part to fit. At a few meets, no one recognized the washers I showed them. Any other info would be appreciated. I think the washers were bent from being loose and the fork action bent them. I think I can straighten them and weld on a reinforcement.
6) Can anyone speak directly to the benefits of replacing the fork springs with Progressive brand progressive wound springs?
7) Can anyone comment on a rear shock that has a full cover and works good, too?
Thanks! Hope to see you in Oley! Dan

[T. Cotten]

Just the coupla questions:
You asked: "1) Do I need a special tool to pull the cam needle bearing from the case? Any tips?"

If you do not split your motorcases as part of a rebuild, you will certainly need a hardened expandible screwpress affair. If you have her all of the way down,, a simple drift (such as a socket that fits in the bore but wil seat upon the bearing) will easily allow you to gently tap it out.

>>"2) When replacing the circuit breaker gear stud in the case, is there anything special to do to ensure it is square?"

If it was beat on and the wiggled to be removed, it won't have a true bore for alignment anyway. Assemble it tight but not firm. Install the gears and inspect for bind. Tap the shaft for a smooth gearmesh, and snug it up. Hope for the cover counterbore to do the rest.

[Perry Ruiter]

"5) I have an adjustable rake front fork. There are 2 special "washers" that hold the fork in the front or rear of the rake slot in the lower tree. The one's I removed were loose, and they looked like stamped formed egg shaped washers with ears. A replace ment part for the part number in my book came as a flat plate with a stud peened on. But the centerline distance of the stud to bolt hole is to long for the part to fit. At a few meets, no one recognized the washers I showed them. Any other info would be appreciated. I think the washers were bent from being loose and the fork action bent them. I think I can straighten them and weld on a reinforcement."

Your replacement flat plate with a stud is what I am familiar with. What doesn't seem to be widely known is that the slot in the lower fork bracket was lengthened in 1958 (guess the swing arm frame needed a little more movement to get the right fork angles). I think the confusion arises because it was given a -50A part number rather than a -58 part number to denote this change. This change meant the plate with the stud then also had to change. But it was given a -58 part number! To the best of my knowledge only the later -58 version of this part is reproduced. If the centerline distance is too long that implies your lower fork bracket is for a rigid framed bike and the plate with stud that you need is the -50A version ... Perry