powder coat question

[Glenn]

doing my 50 pan at an 80% coating ??? on the frame does a power coater usually block off all holes or should I puts bolts and washers over all. expecially the brake shaft and steering head?

what would be acceptable for powder coating for amca specs

are the cups on the neck easy to remove and reinstall there are no pits on them and not sure what finish a 50 should have any help on finish

thanks

moose

I do have palmers book but want to make sure of every detail I'm doing

[rwm]

nicks in williamstown nj did a nice job on my 45,but i had a lot of clean up work after .had to re tap some threads shave spoke holes and sand sone places next time i will use paint powder coat is not cure all .KEEP BRAKE CLEAN FAR AWAY FROM IT!

[exeric]

People say that powder coat looks more like paint these days. I always thought it looked like baked porceline on a frame. My question is, why use something that looks like paint, when you can use paint? Modern enamel wears like iron and is resistant to gas. I painted the frame on my '48FL with Nason Ful-Thane 2K Urethane. It's a Dupont product and that stuff is easy to use, looks great, and I'm very impressed with it's toughness. The big time restoration guys I've talked to use paint because they want to replicate original finishes. I haven't used powder coat in over 10 years so maybe it's better looking than it used to be. I can't argue that it isn't superior to paint for toughness and chemical resistance.

[koanes]

A good powdercoater will have plugs for the holes, and tape for motormount surfaces. You need to make a list of all openings you want plugged with a diagram. The bearing cups should be cad plated. If you warm the neck and remove them carefully they can be replated and you can install new races. Remove the old races from the cups before plating and install new races after.

[Glenn]

do you think a heat gun will do enough for the cups or should I get out the torch?

the races in the cups look perfect along with the bearings guess there is no way around replacing if cad plating the cups

still thinking about the powder coating or paint most have told me the powder coat holds up better and the the 80% would be acceptable for amca judging

any judges want to jump in

[rwm]

glenn i used a torch and air chisel to remove my cups they were realy stuck. back to the powder coat all holes were corked to keep powder out . but this makes a small ridge around the holes (tank mounts and spoke holes in hub) parts with square edges may not look to good. rust pitting is hard to hide with powder coat (only sticks to metal) if you can paint it your self save money 1200 for frame, two wheels ,two hubs, springer forks, horn mount, headlight bracket, handle bars,side straps,seat tee,brake pedal clutch pedal jiffy stand and mount.next bike i paint lots of sand papper and time just may make me look like a good painter

[Paps]

There is really no safe way to salvage your bearing cups, available on the market today. I designed a puller to do it safely but have yet to make one. Paps

[Chris Haynes]

There is really no safe way to salvage your bearing cups, available on the market today. I designed a puller to do it safely but have yet to make one. Paps

Bruce beat ya to it. I am waiting for mine to show up in the mail.

[Paps]

Why that little stinker ! I wonder if the puller is like the one I came up with ? Ya gotta send me some pics Bro !

[Glenn]

tried getting them out last night and the only thing coming off so far is my thumb nail after wacking it with the sledge hammer

oh well now to find plan 2

[Carl Olsen]

Glenn,
You need a long punch that you can clamp a vice grip on so you don't hit your fingers, makes you a lot more brave with the hammer also. After you get one out the other will come out with an old trans mainshaft used for a drift. Your bearing cups are hard to find as most of the aftermarket ones are set up for the later aluminum fork covers and when you go to reinstall your stainless tins your triple trees will be too far apart for the holes to line up.

RWM,
You need to find a different powder coater, $1200 is a rediculous price for the parts you had done and then to top it off, it sounds like he applied it too heavy causing you lots of extra work and headaches. More is not always better!
Carl

[milw.pirates]

powder coat

Glenn,
You need a long punch that you can clamp a vice grip on so you don't hit your fingers, makes you a lot more brave with the hammer also. After you get one out the other will come out with an old trans mainshaft used for a drift. Your bearing cups are hard to find as most of the aftermarket ones are set up for the later aluminum fork covers and when you go to reinstall your stainless tins your triple trees will be too far apart for the holes to line up.

RWM,
You need to find a different powder coater, $1200 is a rediculous price for the parts you had done and then to top it off, it sounds like he applied it too heavy causing you lots of extra work and headaches. More is not always better!
Carl

I agree with Carl,1200 is overpriced,I only pay 100,but I do all the prep work myself,found a shop locally in town.as for neck cups,I 've taken them out with and old screwdriver and hammer,check bearing races for any pitting,flakeing or disscoloring,if any replace