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  • Mouse trap eliminator

    Has anyone installed a mouse trap eliminator on a rigid Pan?
    If so, how and where does the cable bracket mount.
    Is it worth using or am I better going with the foot clutch?

  • #2
    The bracket mounts on the front oil tank boss on the frame, but I guess the question is why do it? A correctly adjusted mousetrap works well and is correct. A change to foot clutch also entails shifter/linkage/trans top/etc, being changed. Perhaps even tanks!
    Robbie
    Robbie Knight Amca #2736

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    • #3
      I gotta ask

      Hey there, Is there a reason that you can't use the Mouse Trap Booster type that you're looking at alternatives? I take it you have a hand shift setup then. I know you asked a question and got a question ...lol that wasn't any help yet. Just makes figuring out what might be best though. Obviously a bobber custom possibly. Merlin in Pa.

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      • #4
        My reason is that I want to eliminate ugly mouse trap. I have no problem with its operation I just want a cleaner looking bike.
        The eliminator bracket has a deep horseshoe design so I assume that it mounts on the front side of the seat post rather than under the oil tank correct?
        I just has the J&( tech support tell me that it mounts on the rear engine mount bu t htat is not posible because the bolt spacing on the engine mount is too wide for the bracket.

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        • #5
          I don't know what J&P is selling. Everyone I have ever dealt with mounts under the oil tank on the backside of the seat post.
          Be sure to visit;
          http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
          Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
          Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/

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          • #6
            Chris,
            does it mount on the top or bottom side of the tank boss?

            If on the top side won't that raise the oil tank and cause fitment problems elswhere?

            I am not sure if it will fit on the bottom due to the ratchet assy.

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            • #7
              Did you change your clutch as well? The -68 clutch assembly and springs are pretty much a necessity with an eliminator. Otherwise the clutch pull is pretty heavy. Most of the aftermarket brackets go on top of the oil tank and wrap around the front of the post. The original H-D type does not but was never used with a horseshoe oil tank. It will probably be fiddly at best since there is very little room to make it all fit.
              Robbie
              Robbie Knight Amca #2736

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              • #8
                Robbie,
                I understand the concern for the clutch springs but the parts books state that with the "Soft Pull" kit which includes the shorter arm that the standard clutch can be used. I know that does not mean it is desireable. I am just trying to gather as much information I can so I do not purchase and waste time installing something that is a band aid. I can live with the mouse trap but the bike wuld look better without that hardware on the side. Like I said earlier, I could go with a rocker clutch and a ratchet shifter and that would probably solve the problem. THis is a semi-custom bobber so I do not care about original.

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                • #9
                  There are several different styles, some bent up, some bend down, some short, some long. I don't know which you have. I would think the bent down, long one is the type you would need. It would mount on top of the oil bag mounting tabs.
                  Simply holding it it position should solve your mystery. Did no instructions come with it? What type throw out are arm you using?
                  Be sure to visit;
                  http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
                  Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
                  Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/

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                  • #10
                    Chris,
                    Thanks for the info. I have not purchased it yet. The kit contains the short tab down bracket with the short 68+ arm. The lond bracket I think would place the cable outside of the ratchet housing and the short bracket should place the cable between the oil tank and ratchet housing.

                    When you say the bracket mounts on top of the mount does it wrap around the front of the post? The large horse shoe desing indicates tha it would. I know that the instructions should help but I do not want to purchase something that is a poor design and does not fit well. As I said earlier I got no help from J&P and I have had my fill of dealing with poor quality from V-twin so I am a little apprehensive with some of these aftermarket parts.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by davidsonp9 View Post
                      When you say the bracket mounts on top of the mount does it wrap around the front of the post? The large horse shoe desing indicates tha it would. I know that the instructions should help but I do not want to purchase something that is a poor design and does not fit well. As I said earlier I got no help from J&P and I have had my fill of dealing with poor quality from V-twin so I am a little apprehensive with some of these aftermarket parts.
                      Sadly the sales people are usually not riders and know little or nothing about motorcycles. It goes in front if you are using a horseshoe oil bag. There is no room for it between the tank and frame.
                      Be sure to visit;
                      http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
                      Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
                      Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/

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                      • #12
                        The kit you need should have the long tab down to fit on top of the oil tank and should not have the stock '68 style clutch arm as it will most likely interfere with the battery/oil tank mount plate. The arm comes up too high if it has the 90 degree bend in it. The best arm for a rigid/horseshoe setup has a slight upward bend in it, about 15 to 20 degrees.
                        Robbie
                        Robbie Knight Amca #2736

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                        • #13
                          The eliminator kits usually have the bent down ear, and mount on the front of the seat post. You may have to bend up the left front side of the oil tank plate for cable clearance.
                          You may also have to chop out the bottom of the oil tank plate for release lever clearance. There is very little room under the plate and above the ratchet lid for anything that doesn't belong there. Eliminator adjustment can also be tricky, and cable life is relatively short.

                          I finally got to the point where I lost patience with the eliminator's hassles, and learned to love the mousetrap! A trap would look cool on a bobber because so few people anymore know what it is.
                          VPH-D

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                          • #14
                            VPH-D,
                            Thanks for the info. My tank mount plate already has the reliefs cut in it. It was an ebay special so the guy maybe used an eliminator. I have questioned the cable routing under the tank because it appears that there is not a good path so I can understand the problems mentioned. I think I am going to stay with stock applications for now and save my money. From most I have read the past two days the mouse trap is not the hassle same claim it to be. You have a point, something unique on a bobber can be appealing.
                            Thanks to all for your help.

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