12V Condenser In 1947-'60 Timers?

[k.perry]

I have found a gap in what I thought was a closed-loop of (from "start to licensed") building a replica rigid Pan; and that missing-link would be the fact, that the 1947-60 timer has a 6V condenser (32726-47), which would fry. Is there a 12V condenser that we can use, to run a 12V electrical system AND 1947-60 timer w/ single points? The V-Twin "Vintage Guide", pg. 169 shows a Generator-Regulator Conversion Electrical Kit (VT 32-0750)... It has a 12V mini-battery; a "sweet-box" (that gives the battery a lift up to an H-2 height. Uses an OE lid and wing nuts); a (black) 12 volt replica coil; a 12 gen. /w (Electric Frank) alternator on the end;....and an automatic!! distributor. If I cannot use a 1947-60 timer and still run a (state mandated) 12V electrical system, then I can't "build" a replica machine to suit my liking. I need the missing...linked.

[k.perry]

I run 12V with the original 6V single points timer, so I don't think it
should be a problem, but maybe this is progress??

Pieter http://www.hydra-glide.net

[k.perry]

Yes my friend. In my opinion, this is progress. Not only that, but we may have created another "kit" for next years catalog. The kit will contain everything that 32-0750 has, except no "Electric Frank" on the end of the 12V generator, and a V-Twin or Accel voltage regulator, and a manual advance timer.

[vride5]

condenser

about 20-25 years ago i was riding through a small town in pa. on my 59FLH , it started poppin an bangin a not hardly runnin, i pulled in a small corner gas station, the guy there said it sounded like my condenser was shorted, i said do you have one, he said all condensers are the same an walked over to his scrap barrel ,reached in an got one that looked a little like mine, i put it on an it worked well, i ran it for probably a month before i got to the harley dealer
my question is ?
did i just get luckey?
are all condensers the same?
or some other answer?

this is just ramblin on a 6% day thank you

[k.perry]

The Palmer book says the H-D condensers were like 28 micro-farads. I'd have to find it and re-read it though. Sure seems like there would be a big diffference in running the spark of a 12V coil (replica, thanks to V-Twin and there persnikity detail ways) past a 6V condenser.

[vride5]

condenser

as i look back on it, i was running a stock 6 volt system and any condenser he was likly to find in his trash was likly 12 volt, just backwards to what you're trying to do
what does a condenser actually do? i always assumed it just evened out the flow of electricity, took out the high an lows. i was always told yo check a condenser, just take it out of the system, the wotor should run without it better than it'll run with it shorted out.
you would have to be pretty old to remember finding a gas station with a mechanic, especially one who not only knew something, but was willing to help a person ,

[k.perry]

The fact that you probably had only 12V condensers to pick from is encouraging. There is some stuff about condensers in Palmers book.

[Jim M]

condenser

The purpose of the condenser is to basically stop the points from sparking after they have separated. If the condenser is bad, points will continue to spark after seperated and will cause pitting, eventually requiring new points after the bike stops running.

Hey Kirk maybe that warm air in southern California is getting to you. I thought for a while that you were talking to yourself through your postings in reply to your postings.

[Perry Ruiter]

The voltage doesn't seem to matter to the condenser (within reason). We all know that Harley went to 12Volt in 1965 (OK nit pickers I know the servicar was 12Volt in 64), yet my 1968 parts book continues to show the -47 condensor in use right up til '68. My 41->84 parts book lists a -30A condensor as fitting from 41 to early 78 (late 78 was when they started with electronic ignitions).
Condensors are essentially the same as an electronic capacitor and most of them have voltage ratings like 250volts and up. I think the worries about a 6volt condensor in a 12volt system are much ado about nothing ... Perry

[k.perry]

Splendid. You never know till you ask. Here's (in part) what Palmer says: "Not all condensers have the same capacity. The standard over the counter condenser from H-D was .23 mf (mirco-farads). This was a middle of the road condenser, good for most all H-D Twins. However, there are cases where this was not the best: on Servi-Cars and continual low speed operations, the factory recommended a .30mf condenser. Conversely, the Hwy. Patrol recommended a .18 condenser for sickles used primarily at hwy. speeds. The problem was a condition known as positive to negative point transference at low speed service and the reverse for high speed service." O.K. no problem for us. We all use .23 mf condensers. We're talking about the fifth issue of timer bases here (1949-'60 timers), which carries over to 1961-64 dual point timer; and it says, "These timers use the later style (1949-69) points and condensers and are used on all models up to 1969 an on Servi-Cars to 1973." Since it went 12V on Big Twins in 1965, it looks like there is no problem running 12V through a '36-48 or '49-60 timer. This is huge for todays "Replicator." Now to tackle setting up 12V left and right (directional) signals and how to hide the wires within the handlebars. The system I see in V-Twin uses an OE style directional/dimmer switch clamped on to the left handlebar that has a side outlet for the wiring (VT 32-0523) with an asterik* (telling me that this is the part that everybody uses) which makes me think that you can't run the directional switch wires through the handlebars. I sure don't like external wires strapped to the handlebars. I really don't want to build a California "Blue Plate Special"...all of those stinking wires and turn signal lights and that blue tag riveted to the front frame tube. It's just the freakin' pits. But what cha' gonna do? Build it and roll it on down to the Hwy.Patrol and let them drill two holes into your frame tube and drive in a couple rivets and a blue tag I guess.

[Jim M]

Capacitors again

I know we have beat this subject to death but I have one suggestion. The only way to check if a specific capacitor will work is to run it. Check the points for pitting after you run it for a while. If you have problems go to a higher mf capacitor. Might try a .34-.35 mf capacitor. I think a 83 Dodge 318 or 383 used these. Buy a good quality one since they are cheap.