Synthetic Oil for a Panhead

[Perry Blake]

I'm sure this subject has been discussed here before but I'm relatively new and I would like some sound reasons for and against running synthetic oil in my Panhead after the break in.

I've had some old timers tell me to never, under any circumstance, run synthetic oil. I have yet to hear a good mechanical reason. It seems to me that running an oil that resists thermal break-down would be good for an air cooled engine.

Fortunately it doesn't use enough oil, a few spots here and there, for the extra cost to be a factor. It's all stock, runs good and it just went through 1000 miles.

Also, if I'm going to convert to synthetic, when?

I'm using 60wt for the break in, should I use 20/60 after the break in?

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Perry

[23JDCA 808]

You might do a search on Synthetic Oil. Here is one discussion. You have to dig through the postings. ...bill
http://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/bbo...ight=Synthetic

[portagepan]

I don't know about the synthetics, but if you use regular oil, I definitely recommend sticking to the staight weight. Oil does not get any thicker than it's lowest rating, so you will definitely see the oil light come on at lower rpm's, if your bike has one. I don't know what year it is. The thing is, unless you are going to ride the bike a million miles, why not just use what worked all along? We can go way overboard on this stuff.
Mike

[Magic]

I wouldn't use it

Hi, I've had several people over the years ask me why a panhead I was riding sounded so quiet ( yes I run stock mufflers ) I inreturn ask what they meant by that. There can be many reasons for a noisy engine at the tail pipe but only a few at the engine itself. I know many of people that run synthetic oils as well as multi-weights, The engine wasn't designed for them and usually they'll leak more and be noisy, which noisy at the engine may not be good for it. Primary case drops are a normal and expected happening on an original set up panhead as that's how the primary chain gets lubricated as well as he final drive chain. Using an oil other then what the specified weight, other areas will develop leaks much quicker and worst yet the Oil pump doesn't lift and push (pressure) the oil as well through the system when it is thinner. Synthetics have their place and in original set up panheads is not one of them from what I experience and see. Personally I use no less then 60Wt and have 70Wt usually in all 3 that I run. Been doing it that way for 30+yrs and never had an engine oil related problem. I am open for discussion on learning about new/better ways of care for my M/C's but have heard others complain when they go off and venture into some new technology. The newer M/C's that are Aluminum engines and dissipate heat differently and have tighter tollerance oil pumps can use thinner multiweights and/or synthetics. This is just my opinion and I respect others and welcome their time tested opinions as well. Keep riding them, Merlin in Pa.

[exeric]

I agree with Mike and Merlin about straight weight heavy oil. I too have never had an oil related problem with any H-D I've owned and I've always used Harley Davidson brand oil. I have been ridiculed in the past by people who said it was just expensive Quaker State and that there are better less expensive oils. Regardless of what some street wise biker says, I have to figure that H-D put a lot of effort and research into their formula of oil.

I don't know much about synthetics but I know you want to avoid additives like Slick 50 etc in roller and ball bearing engines. Teflon works too well and can cause rollers to slide and not roll on a shaft.

[bmh]

Synthetics run cooler, protect better and if the motor is fairly fresh should not cause additional leakage. They should only be used with a filter as the detergents are designed to keep dirt in suspension to be gathered by the filter. Not running a filter will equal liquid sand paper pretty quick. Also motors that have seen some service usually have their gaskets "sealed" with a layer of "silt" inside the motor, the extra detergents will remove this and most likely cause leaks. I use Amsoil in the bike I ride every day, use the same weight that the manual recomends for your model and type of service. As for my others, I can't justify the extra expense for machinery that only goes a few thousand miles a year. A quart of Valvoline R-60 is $2.85 or so a quart of Amsoil 60W is about $8.50.
Brian

[Perry Blake]

Thanks for the responses.

Portagepan, what could be wrong with trying to make your engine last longer?

I did quick searches for Red Line, Torco, Royal Purple and Amsoil. Amsoil appeared to be the only synthetic in that group that offers a straight 60 weight. Red Line specifically recommends 20w60 for Knuckles, Pans and Shovels.

Magic, my bike is stock except the belt drive primary and I spray lube the secondary so for now all I get is a little leakage from the crankcase breather. Your point about the oil pump not pumping the multi-weight oil as well is a real concern. My pump is in good shape, though, with new gears etc.

I'm going to wait a little longer and try to learn some more.