1965 engine paint for FLH

[portagepan]

Hi Everybody!
I asked this question a while ago, and I would just like to run it by again, because I got different answers on it. I have the engine disassembled on my 1965 FLH. I have the Harley hi-temp silver paint. What do I paint? The cylinders? The heads? The cases? I need a definitive answer, so I don't have to do it again.
Thanks, Mike

[rick anderson]

I have an unrestoed 65 FLH and the cylinders, tappet blocks and oil pump are silver. But any time I used "today's" off the shelf high temp silver with out a base coat or primer the iron would rust, even harley paint. The paint they used back then was much better. I found that powder coat silver works the best as long as they do it correctly and lasts for many years.
PS. Don't clear coat anything it turns yellow.

[portagepan]

Thanks for your info. I was told to heat the cylinders before painting them to open the pores a little and get a better seal. I have some chrome lifter blocks that are supposed to be Harley, with a part # on them. I was going to replace the plain ones with those. One older harley dealer old me that the whole engine was painted silver, except for the stainless, polished, and chrome parts. Mine has stainless pans. I think they are proper. Anyone know? The heads and cylinders look great after the bead blasting, but I really want to get this right. so I am just waiting to be sure.
Mike

[T. Cotten]

The pan covers were anodized aluminum.

I cannot think of a single '65 motor part that was stainless, or chrome. But then I'm borderline senile.

...Cotten
PS: I think the tappet blocks with casting numbers were Chubble vintage. None of my '65s had them.

[rick anderson]

When you heat them it opens the poors and releases oil from the metal and is also cald "outgasing". If I remember correctly the powder coater I used heats the parts to 200 degrees in a oven for 8 hours to burn off the oil. If your parts are not clean of the oil it will have a negative effect on your paint job.I was also told at one time that it's the metallic in the silver paint that causes the rust to come threw.I would use a non metallic paint as a base coat like a high temp black.

[Magic]

My 65FLH has an all silver heads, Cylinders, Bttm cases, Intake manifold, oil pump, and tappet blocks, and the valve covers are a bit different as mentioned above by T. Cotten....The Inner Primary looks like raw casting with a Polished Primary and cam cover. I'm just another one saying the same thing, which is what you wanted. They're Great Motorcycles aren't they? Was the first H-D I ever rode when I was 16yrs old and about 150lbs.....and yes it was a full dressed FLH. LOL (I didn't like it then!). Keep Riding them!

[portagepan]

Hi Again!
Boy, am I learning on this one! As far as two coats of paint for the cylinders, I wonder how much heat gain that would cause, if any? Youy would think if Harley sells paint specifically for the engine, it would have the right components. The # I have is98660-78, silver, heat resistant. It says right on the can that heat resistant, and hi-temp colors must be applied to bare metals only. My cylinders are bead blasted, so I think the 200 degree temp prep is the way to go. As far as the chrome lifter blocks, i guess those are for a later model than 1965. The holes are tapered differently or something, also. At least I didn't give much for them. the word i get from the Harley dealer I have been dealing with is just what you told me. The oil pump, lifters blocks, and cyclinders were painted, stock. And darn it, the nice stainless rocker covers on mine have to go also. '65's were aluminum. Now, does anybody have a set of aluminum ones? And, is there any difference in the repops being sold? You are right, this is a great bike! I have trouble riding any of my newer bikes when this one is together. I really admire the older, revolutionary bikes featured in the club. But we have to be adaptable. The newer bikes like mine, and the Japanese bikes, and even the (pardon my french) Shovelheads are collectibles today. So I hope no one gets on their high horse about these, and kills it for the rest of us. I still don't consider myself a collector. I'm just a rider who likes all bikes new and old.

[T. Cotten]

Common repop pan covers are not anodized; If there are any correct ones available,.. I wish to hear about it!

It might be possible to dress and blast stainless with walnut hulls or something to simulate anodizing, but it will never have the exact 'sheen'.

Paughco's aluminum replacements are polished, which are a good start. But beware that like all others, even new pans straight out of a wrapper must still be ground flat.

....Cotten

[rousseau]

Hey Mike

Where did you get your paint [98660-78, silver, heat resistant]? Is this still avalible from dealers? This is the paint also used on the 80/81 FXWG cylinders.

Thanks Dennis

[portagepan]

Yes, that is a dealer part, and the number I gave is the exact one.

[portagepan]

Yes, that is a dealer part, and that is the exact number.

[rbenash]

Not paint related but you mentioned that the timing and primary covers were polished. Don't know if the judges ding you for it or not but the covers are supposed to be cast aluminum (rough sand cast, not polished).

I know they look better when polished, and that's why most most previous owners had them polished out

Ray

[INLINE4NUT]

Cotten , I know where there is a pair still in OEM paper with the HD stickey paper around the paper coverings,they have been sitting on the same shelf for the better part of thirty years,I dont think they could be bought for any amount of money and when said person bought them, they were EXPENSIVE! So Im sure there are more out there just gotta find someone willing to part with them ! But as you said GOOD LUCK on that !!!!!


Bye the way I dont think Hi-Temp Silver is the right paint to begin with,Engine Silver Touch -Up is a little differant ( like the black Engine Paint one) and correct I do believe

[portagepan]

Hi Inline
All I know is what an older Harley dealer told me he uses. I got the same answer from another dealer, also. If it wasn't the "original" paint, it must be what is avalable to the dealers when they rebuild an engine. Maybe?
Mike

[VPH-D]

At one time back in the 70s, we only had two heat resistant colors to sell, silver or black. HR gray was added in 78 for the FXS primary, cone, and rocker boxes. I'm not familiar with what is available today, but if I were painting motor parts on a 65, I would use H-D heat resistant silver with no reservations. It is the correct color for the job.
VPH-D