Panhead fork lock

[49er]

I RE -finishing a restoration on my 1949 panhead.I am trying to fix some problems. I am having trouble with the lock installation. I read T.Cotten's answer to a previous request for info on this subject and I was able to drill out the pin that holds the lock in..I am having 3 remaing problems now. (1 ) I tried to tap the hole for a set screw , but can not find a tap long enough to get past the neck to hold the tap to turn threads..in fact I broke one trying to turn with pliers..any tips on this ?.. it is a tough angle and space is non-existent. I DO HAVE THE WHOLE FRONT END OFF, (2) The pin that locks the neck is stuck??..anyway I can't figure out how to push it out thru front..do I DRILL OUT THE WELSH PLUG ??..and even then ..how do I GET THE PIN TO MOVE FORWARD ?.. (3) I assune the lock goes in with the flat side on its casing to the right to set the set screw against? ...I appreciate T. Cotten's previous post and pics..I just need some more info..thanks, 49er

[Perry Ruiter]

Rather than pliers to hold the tap I would suggest a tap socket. Sanp-On sells this set under their BluePoint brand so I don't think they make them. I think they're made by Lisle. Tap sockets are great and I use them almost exclusively (along with a T handle drive). You can easily add an extension to get the handle into a position where you have room to turn it. Of course with an extension you have added side to side leverage so you need to be extra careful about going straight in to avoid breaking a tap.

I've never tapped the neck lock pin hole, so I don't know if there is enough clearance for the socket, but that would be what I would suggest ... Perry

[Bill Golightly]

Why can't you just drill another slightly larger hole with a contractor's length drill bit? It seems over-kill to try to tap instead of using a roll pin or dowel.

Bill in Stone Mountain

[T. Cotten]

The idea is that you have a convenient way to pull the core if you lose the key.
(Most embarrassing if it is locked, as you would have to pull the fork and do it all over again.)

Just fill it with black paint to hide it, if you are worried about it.

Roll pins are the hardest to drill back out, especially Factory ones. They like to break small bits, since its an interrupted cut.

Back to the original questions:
Yes, the welch plug gets destroyed, unless you can poke it out from inside some how. Most automotive supplys should have a replacement. Unless they are strip-mall chainstores now.
My late pan's was cadmium.

After the core is removed, you should be able to place a screwdriver in the bore and catch the step in the pin, and push it out far enough to then catch the step inside the neck bore to push it all the way out.

Don't forget there's a spring in there.
I never install one, because it seems dangerous to me. But I didn't say not to.

And yeah, the flat should align the keyslot up and down.

.....Cotten

[Bill Golightly]

The idea is that you have a convenient way to pull the core if you lose the key.


excellent point