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  • Weeping linkert

    I'm about ready to pull my hair out with this linkert M35, I got a new rubber ducky float, needle and seat from linkertcarbs.com. I set the float level to 1/4" and offset 1/16th. The carb would overflow immediately, so I pulled it apart, put some pressure on the inlet with the bowl tipped and it leaked bad. Got another needle and seat, and a new machined float arm from linkertcarbs and set it up the same. Now it doesnt overflow, bike runs great but after I shut off the motor and the fuel shutoff, the next morning I can smell fuel, and there is a puddle by the lifter blocks, you can see its leaking out of the vent hole above the bowl. Am I getting crap needle and seats or is there something I'm missing here.

  • #2
    Assuming the float needle/seat is the problem, i suggest lapping the needle to the seat using a fine paste such as Simichrome or Brasso. i have not yet experienced new repro needle/seat pairs that fully seal, so i always bench test to see how much gasoline flows past.
    Steve Swan

    27JD 11090 Restored
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClUPIOo7-o8
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtuptEAlU30

    27JD 13514 aka "Frank"
    https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...n-Project-SWAN
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNRB...nnel=steveswan

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSDeuTqD9Ks
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwlIsZKmsTY

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    • #3
      The float may want to be a little more offset because of the float shape.
      Linkert carbs info says HD recommended 1/4" setting...That may need to be 5/16".
      I have had good luck with their needle/seat combo.
      Another part is the lever that may cause binding.
      Another issue is the tank fuel shutoff may not be sealing.

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      • #4
        The arbitrary offset doesn't always work, Hoyt!

        The only way to be certain the float does not hang up on the bowlstem is to invert the entire carb and suck on the valve.
        The offset can vary with wear upon the floatlever pivot, and I found even new repops needed to be pressed and reamed.

        The Duckie should be fine at a quarter inch (unless your fuel swells it.)

        Even a new metal needle and seat should be "set" by placing the seat on a firm table, inserting the needle, and then smacking it with a screwdriver handle until it passes the suck test. I rarely had to replace an original.

        If the assembled carb passes the suck test, and it still sweats overnight, its your petcock: No floatvalve is absolute.

        ....Cotten
        Last edited by T. Cotten; 04-10-2023, 10:05 AM.
        AMCA #776
        Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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        • #5
          Thanks all for the great advice. I have a carls shutoff so I "assumed" it was not that. When I tear the bowl off again I will double check the shutoff function. So correct me if I'm wrong, once you shutoff the fuel, the remaining fuel between the carb and the shutoff can leak out when a needle isnt propely sealing?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by hoyt1967 View Post
            Thanks all for the great advice. I have a carls shutoff so I "assumed" it was not that. When I tear the bowl off again I will double check the shutoff function. So correct me if I'm wrong, once you shutoff the fuel, the remaining fuel between the carb and the shutoff can leak out when a needle isnt propely sealing?
            Once again, Hoyt,...

            You can't just tear the bowl off.

            You must have the bowl upon the body, and invert both in order to be certain the float does not hang up on the bowlstem, (or side of bowl).

            Meanwhile, please remove the gasline from the petcock, and observe if drops slowly form while shut.

            ....Cotten
            Last edited by T. Cotten; 04-10-2023, 11:08 AM.
            AMCA #776
            Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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            • #7
              The distance between the center of the float lever screw and the center of the fulcrum pin should be between 1/2 and 9/16 of an inch in order to clear the bowlstem and the offset should be 1/16 like in the manual. With this setup you will have plenty of clearance for the float and 1/4 inch clearance on the Rubber Ducky float with an into the wilderness needle and seat. Remember to tighten the bowl nut some more after you have mounted the carb to the manifold and before you final tighten the support nut.
              This is a tried and true setup that I have been using for years. I used to use Cotton's floats in order to support another small cottage industry, but his prices kept going up and became unaffordable.
              Carl
              Last edited by Carl Olsen; 04-10-2023, 08:18 PM.
              http://www.carlscyclesupply.com

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Carl Olsen View Post
                ... I used to use Cotton's floats in order to support another small cottage industry, but his prices kept going up and became unaffordable.
                ...
                And they ain't gonna get any cheaper, Carl!

                When the exclusive material disappears (if it already hasn't),..

                Then you all got to put up with stuck ducks:

                RDSTUCK.jpg

                STUKDUKS.JPG

                Its all about the P4gas, Folks,... And it never stops changing.

                ....Cotten
                AMCA #776
                Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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