1965 Panhead Seat Post Bushing Removal

[Chips Place]

It appears there are two seat post bushings on a '65 Pan. One on the top, level with the seat post frame tubing and another one further down, approximately 5 inches down.
Is there a special tool to pull those out and then replace them.
The internal id on the bushing appears to be in the area of 1.21.

Anyone have an idea of what tool would fit into that id then expand the catch the bottom portion of the bushing and pull it out?

Thanks,
Chip

[T. Cotten]

Its been a couple of decades since I looked down empty '65 seatposts, Chip,...

So I got out a flashlight.

Yeah, that bottom one is deep with next-to-no lip to grab, so if ever I might have replaced a bottom bushing, the real mystery would not be how I custom-chiseled it out (Please remember I was on the clock), but how I fitted it to the post (if it didn't already have 'idiot clearance'),.... or where I put the special drift I lathe-cut to install it.
(It should be engraved with purpose and my initials-in-cartouche, like all the tools I used maybe,... once.)

My suspicion is that I always just replaced the top bushing, as it takes all the wear anyway, and a lot easier to scrape.

....Cotten

[Dablaze]

I am assuming you are talking with the bike still assembled. Bare frames obviously easier. (From the bottom) I don’t know Duos as much as Hydras but I always find that there are often multiple bushings as people beat the old ones down in rather than replace. I agree with Tom, unless you are being exacting, I’d just do the top. Of course, if there’s no lip that’s discernible then maybe it is worn. If you are insistent it must come out, a slide hammer is gonna have to have some kinda specialty cobbled up “hook”

Craig

[ammorest]

I use the side edge of a long chisel sharpened to a sharp square edge to split the bushing. The bushings for the swing arm frames are fairly thin so they split pretty easy. Then peel out and pull out with long needle nose pliers. Colony makes an installation tool that works well.
Dave

[jim d]

I would consider using a blind hole collet puller with a sliding hammer.

[T. Cotten]

I would consider using a blind hole collet puller with a sliding hammer.

Good idea Jim!

And a quick web search showed kits that were reasonably priced, but reached far, far too short for this application.

My graver chisel was octagonal 3/8" about eight and a half inches long, and ground quite oblique.

(Its still here somewhere.)

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

I use the collet puller set from K&L. It comes with a bridge puller and a slide hammer in the collet set. They are rated in metric dimensions but work very well for the money.
The other Snap on Tool's Collet set I have is very expensive.
I've seen very similar metric collet puller kits all over the internet as well.

[T. Cotten]

I searched and searched again, Duke!

The only puller sets with over a five inch reach were well over eight hundred bucks.

(That buys a lot o' chisels.)

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

As I mentioned the Snap on tools kits are very expensive, yep $800 plus+++ depending on the amount of expandable collets you purchase.
But you can buy the K&L kit for under $300.00 that I mentioned I use and works great.
If you search blind hole puller, you'll see numerous puller kits in various collet size ranges that are as cheap as around $55 dollars.
If need be, a simple $8 long nut/coupling nut, can be purchased along with a piece of threaded rod for under $10 can be used to extended your depth of reach required.
The upper bushing is very easy with these inexpensive tool's, it's the center lower bushing that gets tricky and creative with the tooling.
Hope this helps...

[T. Cotten]

Those cheap sets won't reach, Duke!

I search 'K&L' but everything else comes up.

(I've made pullers for everything else anyway, even fork tube bushings.)
FORKBUSH.jpg

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Cotten,
That is some Great looking tooling you made!