How to ride a tank shift/foot clutch 1948 Harley-Davidson

[CAP'N BOB]

Good evening.

I am in the process of learning how to ride a 1948 Harley-Davidson with a tank shift/foot clutch and would appreciate any guidance to help me learn and safely ride this bike.

Thank you.

Bob

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Turning left from a dead stop or slow roll will be confounding for awhile ;-)

In reality, get yourself a good pair of boots with enough sole and ankle flex so you can learn the feel of the rocker. Practice feeling the engagement as it comes over center. Practice creeping forward and make sure you don’t drag your right foot. Get it up and work your balance.

two, I found it easier to relearn riding foot clutch a couple years ago by slightly increasing the rocker pedal friction. This allows you to hold an engagement point or slip almost at will. Unlike a hand clutch, you can somewhat leave the rocker in most any setting you like. Keep that in mind as you practice. The friction zone is pretty generous but many new foot clutch riders rush the engagement as they feel it catch and then lurch or stall. Take your time and let it slip a bit as you learn. You’ll get better fast.

finally, go to a parking lot and practice your basic clutch control skills via u turns, figure 8s, and dead stop j turns. Practice coming to a stop and taking off without putting a foot down similar to trial’s riding. Then start worrying about gear change smoothness etc. rinse and repeat.

after a few practice sessions you’ll start developing the muscle memory.

keep in mind that dropping your heel stops the forward motion. If you get in over your head practicing, drop your heel.

finally, remember when you shut the bike down to engage the clutch after the motor stops (toe down) regardless of whether you are in neutral. Similarly do not leave the bike idling in gear, get off, and expect the rocker to remain disengaged. Treat it the same as a hand clutch (ie you wouldn’t zip tie the lever to the bar to keep the clutch disengaged when you parked up or do the same to leave the bike in gear whilst you dashed indoors for a sec.)

Just take your time and enjoy the process.

I hope you enjoy your bike!

[T. Cotten]

I've taught many riders to handshift/footclutch, Folks...

Trusting the pedal to stay disengaged is the true origin of the term "suicide clutch"; Habitually find neutral before you roll to a stop.

Launches were always awkward until we released all tension on the pedal; Working it like a car clutch came more naturally, as tension robs feel for engagement.
(I tensioned it for my wife and she immediately declared it 'stupid'.)

However, a tensioned pedal does have its place for 'feathering' through mud bogs, crossing streams, and slow parades.

1morelog.jpg

Dot sez push Earl.jpg
(Dot sez "Push, Earl!)

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Thank you, Chuck and Tom.

I am not sure what you mean, release the tension, is that the spring on the clutch mechanism and you took that off?

[T. Cotten]

Thank you, Chuck and Tom.

I am not sure what you mean, release the tension, is that the spring on the clutch mechanism and you took that off?

Just loosen the nut, Cap'n!

The clutch pedal has a friction disc and star spring so its action can be adjusted to be sluggish throughout its arc, if "feathering" is needed without your foot upon it.

In theory, it can be set up where there is little friction, but the bellcrank spring would still keep it disengaged when the heel is down to its limit. (In reality, assemblies are often worn to where either the tension must be increased to where it robs feel for engagement, lest motor vibration alone can coax it back into engagement, hence the 'suicidal' aspect.)

So no hardware is removed to adjust the tension nut to your pleasure, but trust it to stay disengaged at a stoplight at your own peril. Habits you learn with the clutch 'crutch' are hard to unlearn.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Thank you, Tom. As you know, I have a LOT to learn about this!

[T. Cotten]

Thank you, Tom. As you know, I have a LOT to learn about this!

You've never driven a manual transmission auto or truck, Cap'n?

Imagine how weird that would have been if the pedal stayed where you put it.

You can always tell amateurs when they park the machine with the pedal in the air; Not real good for the clutch springs, either.

(I remember when the MOCO museum trailer parked north of Davenport, and a '36OHV was behind glass with the pedal up. I cringed.)

...Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Being old, I learned on a standard transmission car and can still drive one, so I get the concept, but those had clutch and throttle both on the floor, with column shift (or right hand shift, which I have done a lot of with trucks and sports cars; oh, and when stationed in Japan, right side drive so left hand on the shifter, ah!) this has clutch on the floor and hand shift and I need to coordinate that. I always go into neutral when parking my bikes and always start in neutral, and when driving sports cars, NEVER kept my hand on the shifter, I was told years ago that would wear out the synchronizers in the transmission.

So, maybe I know more than I think. Cool. Thank you.

[T. Cotten]

When I had to learn to ride Indians with everything opposite, Cap'n,...

I had to overcome decades of ingrained habit to safely maneuver in town.

The simple trick to short-wiring my brain was to keep my right hand on the knob.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

I just loosened the friction, Tom, wow. Have not tested it with the engine running, but that makes all the sense in the world. Yes, just like a clutch in a car or truck, the clutch "pedal" comes back up. When the engine is running, and the transmission gears are meshing, that will probably pull that clutch foot heel/toe back, even with friction on the nut if it is too loose (which I think you are telling me, about the suicide aspect). Right now, I set it with almost no friction, and when I touch the toe part, it snaps back to the heel.

With no synchronizers in this transmission to wear out, having my left hand on the knob will re-wire my brain, as you said, and with no damage to the transmission.

Sure glad I asked this question. I know I will need to practice, and the practice advice from Chuck and you and specific adjustment information.

[T. Cotten]

Snaps back to the heel, Cap'n?

Is the clutch rod connected?

The clutch spring pack should pull the pedal into engagement, toe-down on most Milwaukee machines.

The engine and transmission shouldn't have any effect beyond making everything bounce.

....Cotten
.

[CAP'N BOB]

When I put the heel down, toe up and gently tap on the toe, it reaches a tipping point and the toe drops and heel comes up, putting the bike in gear. I would call it a snap into gear. I am looking forward to starting it again, and guess I need to bite the bullet and hook up the gas bottle so I can get it running, since the new proper strainer will not be here until Tuesday, and knowing me, I will not wait that long. I'm getting anxious to try this with the engine running.

Clutch rod is connected and adjusted per the Harley manual, as is the clutch. Snaps it into gear at about half way; that is not exact, I put the hand shift in second while the heel was down, toe up, then started turning the rear wheel by hand and tapping the toe, moved easily, then, it reached what I'd call a tipping point putting the transmission in 2nd and the heel came up. I'm thinking that a moving gear set has an impact with the engine running, bounce, as you said, and that facilitates gear engagement/clutch pack movement. Sounds like I am at a point where this is a fine tuning adjustment, which means, engine running and the feel of clutch/gear interaction and engagement.

[Rubone]

Do not "tap" the pedal, it is not intended to work that way. You must rotate it throughout its travel with your foot properly positioned on it, toe up front heel on the back of the pedal. Feel the friction point and slowly engage while simultaneously adding throttle (use of the timer control helps as well, when slightly retarded there is less chance of bogging the engine down on takeoff, then just roll to full advance when accelerating)
The friction point is just like it would be in a car or any other mechanical clutch.
As for the friction on the pedal itself you may find you prefer a bit to help control the engagement.

[CAP'N BOB]

When I' m riding it, I will not tap it, this was just the test for the tipping point.
https://vimeo.com/674018216

[T. Cotten]

Just something that's always ignored, Folks,,..

Lots of riders find their ankles don't flex like the pedal. This becomes even more uncomfortable when sitting forward on the seat to accommodate a passenger. (Passengers were the whole reason I got into motorcycles.)

Just release the friction mechanism to where the clutch spring pack pulls itself into gear, and then you can merely toe-down and release on the heel of the pedal.

No more lunging on the launches, because you feel the clutch, not the friction dampener, which is totally pointless on pavement anyway.

....Cotten