Linkert m74 idle control/throttle plate light leak

[CAP'N BOB]

You may need to use Today28Jun22 as a password to look at the video link.

[CAP'N BOB]

Short update. It has been a long time since I posted to this or any string (I did another about tank shifting and received a lot of guidance, which I appreciate, none of which took or made me a tank shift rider). A friend who builds and rides tank shifts came over and noted a couple of issues for me. I am too tall for the bars causing the bars to hit my legs/knees in any effort to turn, making shifting very difficult, and making me need to lean way down to reach the bars, throwing my whole riding style out the window, and working the clutch is difficult for me because of the geometry of fighting the bars. He recommended that I discuss taller bars with my customer, so I did. We agreed to get Flanders bars, which required new spirals, rewiring, etc. I finally have the bars on and the throttle and advance set up. In the process, I was able to make the stock type throttle bracket fit and work. Better than the one I made, so that bracket (part number 56604-48), a one year only part I believe, is on the bike and works smoothly. The tanks are not back on, but I'm confident this will work. Looks better and is smoother.

The Flanders type bars with dog-bone risers look good on the bike, I think.

I hope this link will allow anyone interested to see the video that demonstrates the working of the throttle and advance. https://vimeo.com/725477976

I also found that the short grips for the Stellings spirals had to be cut down from long grips. I saw a photo of a knuck that is at Wheels Through Time which had Flanders bars and short grips, so I contacted Matt at Wheels Through Time, he graciously told me how that all worked and that I had to cut down stock grips to make the short ones. Amazing how much I do not know about old Harleys. Thank all of you who have been helping me learn.

Bob

20220624_173550.jpg20220624_173535.jpg20220624_174134.jpg20220624_173550.jpg

[CAP'N BOB]

Hey, Tom, I just posted a question about tank shift/foot shift

[CAP'N BOB]

Thank you, Tom, I will do that.

[T. Cotten]

Nothing I own is like they came out of the Factory.

Don't feel all alone, Cap'n!

But I think I could fake a crate,

"Best available reproduction", right?

(Hope they weren't tulip poplar.)

....Cotten
PS: Please feel free to start a new topic about operating foot clutches.

I have advice declared not 'correct'.

[CAP'N BOB]

Nothing I own is like they came out of the Factory. No chance to show at AMCA, for me, Even if/when I put the 1947 FL back as two wheels, even with the 1945 4 speed Harley transmission (I was born in 1945 and finding that transmission is what makes me want to use it, and doing the 1948 makes me want to use it on a two wheeler), there will be lots of non-Harley parts and Bob modifications! I just cannot help myself, I'm a fixer. Will probably keep all the electronics, except the push button starter.

That's a cool picture you sent. I have a 53 FL, but it sure does not look like that one! :-)

Thank you.

Bob

[T. Cotten]

Of course, "correct" can mean it works?

Under AMCA judging dogma, that can be irrelevant, Cap'n!

Although the machine has to be started in front of the judge, (or so I was told, for what that's worth... ), "correct" just means it is exactly as it left the factory.

Getting it back into the crate is the hard part.

Crated 48.jpg

,,,Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

I told you I was a Heathen.

[CAP'N BOB]

Good I'm not being judged! :-) My motto is Adapt and Overcome! Probably why I'm not a restorer, just a mechanic and builder.

Of course, "correct" can mean it works?

[T. Cotten]

There's only one "correct", Cap'n!

Just ask any AMCA judge.

....Cotten

[CAP'N BOB]

Correct is in the eye of the beholder, quite often, Ronnie. And, correct and stock are not necessarily the same thing. I customize bikes and build trikes, which, by definition is customized, in addition to working on stock, and now, this rustoration. I've made a lot of parts that work better than stock or aftermarket. And, my knuck and pan both have S&S carbs, Baker 6 in 4 transmissions, belt primaries, 12 volt and electronic everything, electric and kick start, they work much better, start easier, never need to adjust mechanical points or worry about advance and retard. They are not set up for antique shows or judging, they are set up for riding to Sturgis. And, that is not to say an antique bike set up for the Cannon Ball Run, for instance, cannot go across country, with the right pilot, but, most of the people I know and work with do not know how to keep a modern bike running, let alone something like this beautiful rustoration.

All of that said, and as I have said previously, I now have a better appreciation for these old, stock (almost) bikes and the people who keep them up and running, and ride them.

I am so taken with the process, God help me, I am probably going to de-trike my 1947 and put it back on two wheels with a tank shift/foot clutch. I even have a validated 1945 4 speed transmission and its old frame to use with the back to 2-wheels conversion, just sitting waiting until I can get done with the 1948 for my customer. The 1947 trike has a custom built by me frame, using a Pan front part, a Servi-car axle, etc, and is about as all custom as a person can do, even has S&S 80 inch flywheels. So, I'm kinda one of those heathens who believe I gotta mess with everything. Sometimes with terrible results, sometimes with great results. :-)

I'm with Tom Cotton when he says "creative aspects..", none of my bikes are stock, even the 2017. But, stock is cool and appreciated, even more, now, that's for sure.

[T. Cotten]

all motorcycles work better with the correct parts

They are certainly worth more, Ronnie!

But if they get too 'correct', many of us couldn't afford to risk riding them.

"Correct", driven to the mythical AMCA ideal, eliminates the creative aspects of enjoying a vintage machine, which many find rewarding.

Does the machine really know when it's got too much chrome?

....Cotten

[ronniecox]

all motorcycles work better with the correct parts

[CAP'N BOB]

Yup, Tom, that is correct! :-) This bike most likely will never be in a show or maybe even ridden much, but it must work. Small example of issues I've had from the beginning just popped up, after my last gas bottle run (I thought, "last", but..), the bike has a fuel strainer. I was all set to get the fuel tanks set up and found the fuel strainer that my customer had purchased from a swap meet is for 1949 up and the 1948 correct fuel line would not work. So, I've ordered a fuel strainer that will work (please God, let it be so), since it is for up through 48.

If you watched the video, you will notice the mis-matched fuel tanks, mis-matched front and rear fenders, Dash is painted white and tail light is chrome (though, the chrome tail light may just be a 1948 one from Harley Davidson), and a lot of other things that are from now, not from then, and years other than 1948. Old parts, new parts, stock parts, repop parts, everything that came to me in tubs was from swap meets and years of collecting parts (I'm betting the frame is not a stock 1948, but am not sure). Not whining, just stating facts. Now that this runs, I am happy. Will be even happier when it is complete and in my customer's possession, I think. :-)

With Tom's and other's help, the carburetor works, the oil filter housing fits and works, and the oil filter canister actually does not leak! I've run the bike often enough to know those will not leak. The heads, on the other hand, still weep, but I have decided to go with it instead of taking the heads off again to put in yet another set of gaskets (which I've already done), since it is not bad and I have no assurance that they will not always weep, even with a different set of gaskets.

Been quite the learning experience.

I did try one of the throttle cable holders for a 1948, and the linkage, but just could not make them work, (in fact, one guy who was trying to help me, when he saw the photos I sent told me this was "All F..ed up", because the intake manifold was also wrong and too long, so advised that I just figure it out to make it work, and I had to make my own, longer, choke rod lever, which I did from heavy piano wire) so did my own, more than once, but the one on there now does work and the fuel tanks fit. Certainly not period correct, since it is my newest design, but it does the job and the throttle cable works every time and smoothly. I suppose, if it were a show bike, I would look at it differently, but it just needs to work, and honestly, I've been at this rustoration for pushing 4 years. Came to me in tubs, even had to get the left case welded. As I said, I've learned a LOT about putting one together as close to stock as possible and a tremendous amount of respect for those who keep them stock and running.

On the tank shift, I have adjusted the clutch and it seems smoother. Looking forward to actually getting the fuel tanks in play and putting rubber on the road to try tank shifting. Well, I think I am looking forward to it.

Thank you, again for all the help, everyone.

Bob

[T. Cotten]

if thats a 48 the throttle activating fixture on the carb is earlier model not 48 also there is a cable holder that mounts on the top motor mount bolt

You are correct, of course, Ronnie!

But 'correct' went to the curb long ago with this machine.

The Cap'n just wants it to work with what he's got.

Every one of us could do it different.

....Cotten