Dead Panhead

[droptopford]

Just cruising down the road yesterday, 35... 40 mph when my '48 died. Engine quit instantly like someone threw a kill switch. I have good strong battery. Good current to ignition switch and lights. Checked all the obvious connections... timer, coil etc. Points look good and have spark. No spark at either plug. No time or place to work on it yet. I'm sure I'll figure it out when I get a chance to start checking things but I'd like to know if you guys have any ideas/suggestions.

Will a failed condenser act like that? How about the coil? Do they ever just completely fail like that... both leads?

Thanks

[Jerry Wieland]

Usually failed condenser causes erratic fire and not dead entirely bur anything is possible. Jerry

[T. Cotten]

I hate to post this, Dead Panhead,...

But by the time you get back to it, it might start right up. (Most machines have a female nature, even Chiefs!)

The worst aspect would be it could happen again, but you won't know what "fixed" it.

Be thankful if you do not do this for a living. Good luck,

....Cotten

[droptopford]

Thanks guys. Yeah, I thought maybe something might have failed due to the (90 degrees yesterday) heat. Figured it might be back to normal when everything cooled down. But no... it's still dead. Probably better that way. I hate intermittent issues.
I'll get it figured out when I get a chance to look at it.

[K. Felt]

Coil crapped out on my '65 last year. Hot day. Riding all day, bike running great. Stopped at a stop sign and dead, just like that, instantly.

[gitguy]

I agree, coil is likely suspect especially with the hot weather you describe. Ask me how I know . . . If it runs again once it cools I think you'll have your answer.

[droptopford]

Thanks for the input guys. Don't know when I'm gonna get time to work on it but I'll check back in when I figure it out.

[Rubone]

Do not neglect to check the ignition switch, a common issue with older H-Ds.

[Lyle Manheimer]

When ignition coils fail, they heat up and the secondary winding opens. When the bike cools it will often start again due to the winding making a connection again, only to fail again and again until it fails completely open. Condenser failure happens two ways open, which causes burned points and closed or shorted which causes no spark. A condenser can be checked with a volt ohm meter. Place the meter in the ohms position on a low scale and attach one lead to the condenser lead, lead must be removed from the circuit, and the other to the body. A continuity reading 0 ohms means it is shorted and you have found your problem. A meter reading that starts low and increases, ohms go up, means the condenser is probably good.
It could be a failed ignition switch and it could be a grounded wire in your ignition primary circuit. If you cycle the ignition switch from on to off several times and you get spark it is probably the switch then you should check the ignition switch for continuity and replace it if the reading is more than a few ohms. If the switch is ok you will need to isolate the ignition switch primary circuit at the switch and the timer and check for a grounded wire.

[droptopford]

Ok... I'm a moron and I admit it! First thing I said when I was describing this situation is that I had a good, strong battery. I thought I did. It lit the headlight and showed a little above 6 volts. I also said I had spark at the points (so I think that eliminated the ignition switch?).

When I finally got a chance to start tracing down the problem, I still had spark at the points, a bit pitted but gap looked ok. Figuring that I'd be putting in a new set of points, condenser and re-setting the timing, I put the bike on the rear stand. Then I noticed that with the ignition switch on, I had no Oil or Generator light. No headlight either. Checked the battery again... less than 1 volt. With the voltmeter attached, I rocked the bike around a little. The battery voltage went back up above 5 volts and then back down to 0.

Put a new battery in it, points, plugs and condenser etc and it's back to running like a top. I guess in the long run, I'd rather be a moron than try to find another working OEM coil.

Thanks for all the help/suggestions etc.

One other question: Anybody know why the aftermarket points kit has 2 coil springs... 1 longer than the other? They both fit. Which one is the best one to use?

[exeric]

I very much appreciate threads like this because I am motor/electric diagnosis challenged. It helps when people give their experience based opinions, and suggestions; so please don't hold back. I also appreciate 'droptopford for sharing his conclusions on this problem. Motor, and electrical problems are so ambiguous, and mysterious, so sharing this stuff can always be of great help. Thanks to this forum, and the people that contribute.

[D.A.Bagin]

I very much appreciate threads like this because I am motor/electric diagnosis challenged. It helps when people give their experience based opinions, and suggestions; so please don't hold back. I also appreciate 'droptopford for sharing his conclusions on this problem. Motor, and electrical problems are so ambiguous, and mysterious, so sharing this stuff can always be of great help. Thanks to this forum, and the people that contribute.

eric,

I'll take your fabrication skills over mechanical any day. I have just enough mechanical to get me in trouble and no fab skills.