The float levers available now never fit right around the needle and are too brittle to shape. Should these be aneiled before shaping? If so what is the proper process? What is a quality brand to buy? Thanks
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Originally posted by otis71 View PostThe float levers available now never fit right around the needle and are too brittle to shape. Should these be aneiled before shaping? If so what is the proper process? What is a quality brand to buy? Thanks
But you have little to lose to try heating it cherry red for a while, cool it slow, and then chill in the freezer before forming.
It is far easier to recondition originals by die-pressing the pivot bore tight upon a 3/32" drill shank, and then reaming to a sweet fit upon the pivot pin, greatly reducing the arc of lateral swing that often hangs up the float upon the bowlstem.
Even "quality" reproductions benefit from this treatment.
Wear upon the three fingers is simply smoothed away with jeweler's files, and polished with a Dremel.
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 03-29-2021, 08:00 AM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Now that I check my photo records, Folks,...
I find there are cast brass levers...
castLVR.jpg
And CNC'd "billet" levers,..
cnclvr.JPG
and "conventional" Tedd crap....
CRAPLEVR.JPG
(Note tragically burred fingers and deep setting. It took a jeweler's saw to cut the fingers free of each other.)
Its been a couple of years, but Starklite sold me levers separately, They still needed the pin bore tightened, but were the best on the market.
The Starklite float, however, was a boatanchor (on left scale pan), and bloat-prone as well.
QUAKBALANCE.jpg
Beware also of the malleability of the float tang itself. Note how this NOS M88 lever for a light cork float bends sharply upward.
leverbend.JPG
...CottenAMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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T.Cotton, what are your thoughts on these. I ran across them yesterday
https://www.ebay.com/itm/39320268344...YaAhSBEALw_wcB“People who say it cannot be done, should not interrupt those who are doing it” ― Bernard Shaw
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Originally posted by otis71 View PostAt $45 with shipping, I would hope they work well. If I don’t get the one I have working satisfactory I’ll try one and let you know. Being solid, there doesn’t seem like there’s much room for adjustment.Robbie Knight Amca #2736
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Originally posted by otis71 View PostTom,
is your technique to aneil brass also the proper way to do brass or copper gaskets and seals? Online it generally says heat and cool quick but that goes against logic in my opinion. Slow cooling seems more effective.
When it comes to real metallurgy. I only know barnyard hearsay, and haven't even paid attention 'online',.. yet.
Which copper gaskets on Panheads would you not just replace?
Brass manifold ferrules and petcock seals, even brand new however, certainly need all the help they can get!
(Lazy people like me use modern replacements machined from the material PEEK.)
Originally posted by kustomizer View PostT.Cotton, what are your thoughts on these. I ran across them yesterday.
Why do producers go to so much trouble to make things wrong, when it would be easier to make the thing right?
If I ever get back in business, I'll try https://starklite.com/ and https://www.jerrygreersengineering.com/ first.
....Cotten
PS: Even if I found a stash of genuine *NOS* levers,.. I'd still have to tweak them to my specs.Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-29-2021, 11:56 PM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Originally posted by otis71 View PostI I too have dabbled with PEEK.
PEEKCORE.jpg
At two bits a gram, its half of MSC Industrial's price!
....Cotten
AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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I have been rebuilding linkert carbs for years and I use into the wilderness parts exclusively, they are the best and they care about their products. I would highly recomend them to anyone from the novice to the professional. They make the only needle and seat assembly that actually work and can pass the suck test. Cotton makes the best floats.
Carl
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Originally posted by Carl Olsen View PostI have been rebuilding linkert carbs for years and I use into the wilderness parts exclusively, they are the best and they care about their products. I would highly recomend them to anyone from the novice to the professional. They make the only needle and seat assembly that actually work and can pass the suck test. Cotton makes the best floats.
Carl
But my experiences with ITW hardware were disappointing.
(Unless ITW is here to respond, I hesitate to post examples.)
Colony's float valve needle and seats work great, after a rap with a screwdriver handle of course.
....Cotten
AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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