Oil Pump check valve

[41craig]

Also, if you're dealing with a 45 or U model, it doesn't mater how well your oil pump seals, if you have too much clearance around the #1 camshaft that drives the oil pump, oil will still go into the crankcase.

Just curious, has anyone ever cut a groove in the #1 cam bushing to install an o ring to prevent sumping in this area?

I've never thought about a seal on the #1 cam bushing, but it may help. Every spring for the last 47 years, I put a drain pan under the cam cover breather on my ULH and let it puke. The worst part is it goes right on the front pipe, then to the pan. But, I clean off the oil, add fresh oil and I'm ready for the season.
Craig

[RCamp]

Also, if you're dealing with a 45 or U model, it doesn't mater how well your oil pump seals, if you have too much clearance around the #1 camshaft that drives the oil pump, oil will still go into the crankcase.

Just curious, has anyone ever cut a groove in the #1 cam bushing to install an o ring to prevent sumping in this area?

[pan620]

I tell people around here that when you walk by your bike once a week, check your oil level, is it lower than the last check, if it is start it up before it is worse and makes a big mess. But nobody does this they just complain to me about it!

[RCamp]

Several years ago I tried the burnishing tool without much luck. I ordered 100 Viton balls with I believe a durometer rating of 60.
Viton would handle the temps as well as having a high resistance oil and gas. If the pump seat wasn't to bad the balls would conform to the irregularities and eliminate the sumping problem.

I used them in three of my bikes and gave the rest away with about a 75% success rate with my bikes and the feedback I received.

[Rollo]

I'm with Cotton on this. If you aren't going to ride or at least kick them through or better yet start them on a weekly basis, drain the oil and reuse it when you are going to ride it. I know plenty of folks who have tried all the supposed fixes and still have the problem of wet sumping. Some have put inline shut offs on their bike but I think I would rather drain the oil and tag the bike as "no oil" and fill it again. Just mu worthless two cents!

Tom ( Rollo( Hardy
AMCA #12766

[T. Cotten]

I know it might look ugly, but could installing a small shut off valve in the oil supply line work? The danger would be if you forgot to turn it on prior to starting your bike, but has anyone tried this?

It better be a BIG valve, LRC!

Might as well put a solenoid on it, too.

Face it, Folks,.. They sump when they haven't been ridden.

If you aren't going to ride for many weeks at a time, its easiest to just drain it into a jug, and pour it back in.

....Cotten

[lrcormier]

I know it might look ugly, but could installing a small shut off valve in the oil supply line work? The danger would be if you forgot to turn it on prior to starting your bike, but has anyone tried this?

[T. Cotten]

Hi all, have the common problem with my oil pump. The check valve insn't tight. During few month of not running motor, the
crankcase is filled with oil…
What can I do to solve that Problem?
Do anyone know a tool for polish the seat of the check valve ball? Would be happy for recommendations…
George

I can tell you what doesn't work, George!

Bubble-testing of a checkvalve on the bench soon proved that all attempts at lapping, angle grinding, cutting, burnishing, or smacking with a drift only made things worse.

Only a flat grind from the top with a piloted stone as shown in the attachment could remove a worn seat, and improve its seal.

I lost an enormous investment, and a lot of valuable time, trying to solve this very pesky problem.

...Cotten

[Schorsch]

Hi all, have the common problem with my oil pump. The check valve insn't tight. During few month of not running motor, the
crankcase is filled with oil…
What can I do to solve that Problem?
Do anyone know a tool for polish the seat of the check valve ball? Would be happy for recommendations…
George