Mousetrap

[38plymouth]

RE: 1957 FL
I have posted at another site and hope to get some additional feedback:

Removed the mousetrap eliminator and re-installed the original booster that worked fine when I bought the bike in 72. Lost the clutch rod and the clutch release lever and orig. clutch springs.
After market clutch release lever, clutch rod, new early stronger clutch springs, kept the eliminator style clutch pack, 4 friction, 3 steel
Clutch will not counter balance the booster and it wont snap back to over TDC.

I used a Dumore grinder and "coned" out the clutch release lever and the clutch rod acts like it should
The clutch lever rod # 36917-36 from Paughco is actually 22" long which is the correct length for a 36918-52 (after market, go figure)
I dressed the end of the rod to give it a rounded profile and it works well with release lever.
There is very good video on Youtube from "Pacific Mike" that provides the same instruction as the service manual.
I adjusted the lever to the "suggested" length of about 4.25 inches from the ratchet.
The booster spring is as loose as possible
The bell crank is adjusted 1/8 " over TDC and stays put
the clutch lever rod has 1/16" of free play
The clutch cable is loose, the clutch hand lever has about an inch of free play.
There are new foot clutch springs installed on a stock 3 finger clutch.
In order to get the clutch to overcome the booster I have to tighten the clutch springs to the point that the clutch is not fully releasing.
Is it possible that the extra friction disc that is used with the eliminator is causing the problem?
Thanks,
Sam

[jorrow]

Pictures of the setup would be helpful.

[38plymouth]

Jorrow, Will these do?
Thanks

2020-06-04 13.22.21.jpg2020-06-04 13.22.04.jpg2020-06-04 13.21.19.jpg2020-06-04 13.20.55.jpg

[TomL]

Are there grooves worn in the 10 studs on the hub the plates and discs move on?

[jorrow]

What is the uncompressed length of your springs. Its possible they sent you the later springs for a 4 steel plate, 5 friction disc set up. They take longer but weaker springs.

[38plymouth]

Are there grooves worn in the 10 studs on the hub the plates and discs move on?

Studs are smooth, discs move cleanly

[38plymouth]

What is the uncompressed length of your springs. Its possible they sent you the later springs for a 4 steel plate, 5 friction disc set up. They take longer but weaker springs.

I'll measure tomorrow. Does anyone have any advice regarding number of discs or stack height? I'm going to put it back together with only 3 friction discs.

[Rubone]

I'll measure tomorrow. Does anyone have any advice regarding number of discs or stack height? I'm going to put it back together with only 3 friction discs.

What kind of discs are they? Riveted early type or bonded later. The thickness is dramatically different, and if they are bonded you are going the wrong direction.

[38plymouth]

What kind of discs are they? Riveted early type or bonded later. The thickness is dramatically different, and if they are bonded you are going the wrong direction.

Robbie, they are bonded, fairly recently installed. What would recommend? Thanks
Sam

[38plymouth]

After a closer look, the clutch studs a slightly grooved. Is this critical? If it needs to be replaced are there good replacements available?

[38plymouth]

I found a much better hub from my 74 FXE on the shelf. The free length of the early clutch hub springs I installed with the booster is 1.5". The late (eliminator) springs I removed are 1.7". Are the stronger springs supposed to be shorter? I can't really measure the force, they are brand new from Ted.
Thanks,

[jorrow]

I found a much better hub from my 74 FXE on the shelf. The free length of the early clutch hub springs I installed with the booster is 1.5". The late (eliminator) springs I removed are 1.7". Are the stronger springs supposed to be shorter? I can't really measure the force, they are brand new from Ted.
Thanks,

The early springs are shorter. The early clutch friction discs are much thicker and you use 3. Most are riveted on the plates. The later friction discs are thinner and 5 were used. If you use the 5 plates use the longer springs, 3 plates use the shorter ones. Adjust the distance from your spring collar to your pressure plate per your manual. This should give you the balance range for your mouse trap.

[38plymouth]

Progress. Drilling the discs, cleaning up the hub, keeping the clutch rod to the absolute minimum all helped. Bell crank now returns to over center. Will finish tomorrow. Thank you all for your help.
Sam

[38plymouth]

It works like it should. Two finger operation. It's not called a mousetrap for nothing. Next time I wont adjust the clutch rod while the booster is loaded.Why it's called a mousetrap.jpg

[craig (DE)]

Ouch!!!!

That will leave a mark!