48 Panhead - Foot Clutch Rebuild Questions

[harleygreg]

Hi Guys – This clutch appears to have been upgraded; it has the long roller bearings, the drive hub is in excellent condition, it has five clutch hub bearing plate springs, it has 5 steel plates, 6 friction (all clean, flat and deglazed), the springs look new (I haven’t measured them). The clutch push rod is 13 ¼” long. The clutch release lever has a slight bend in it but this looks normal, compared to pictures on the web.

I was told in an earlier post that the normal upgrade consists of less plates than I have.

Whilst the above set up seemed ok, on testing the bike prior to stripping down, the clutch did not disengage unless you screwed in the push rod adjusting screw. In order to get the more movement I have had to grind the clutch release finger, so the throw out bearing moves fully. This all seems to work now.

Question 1 - Is the above set up correct?

Question 2 – Should I install the ‘ram jett retainer’?

Thanks

Greg

IMG_3401.JPG IMG_2131.jpg IMG_3403.JPG

[Rubone]

The number of plates doesn't matter, the overall thickness of the stack does. Some aftermarket plates are thinner than stock so extra plates can fit in the same space. More plates are generally used to be able to use less spring pressure and easier pull for hand clutches. On foot clutches that doesn't matter.
Is the finger or throwout (or both) aftermarket?
I am not a fan of either Big Fix rollers or tamers.

[41craig]

Greg; I've used the Ram Jet Retainer for many years. I'm not sure if they are still in business, but V-Twin sells a copy. (Go figure). It keeps the clutch basket from walking out away from the transmission. The clutch basket walking out causes the clutch plates tighten up on each other. Thus you have a grabby clutch. I've never seen a need for a 5 finger clutch hub, but it is already there, so I would leave it. Just my 2 cents.
Craig

[harleygreg]

Hi Robbie - Thanks for the response. I'm not familiar with the original v's aftermarket for these parts but some images are enclosed. You can see where I have ground the finger.

Greg

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[kitabel]

If the clutch hub moves any significant distance in & out, the big ball bearing is going away.

[T. Cotten]

If the clutch hub moves any significant distance in & out, the big ball bearing is going away.

Its the drum that walks, Kitabel!

My chains were wearing out sideways; I'm a fan of the original Ram-Jet tamer or whatever it was called.
My experience with belts is very limited, but I would think a retainer would more than prudent, particularly with a footclutch.

And the "Big Fix" rollers were great for bridging over deep wear tracks.

But I'm no fan of the silly five-adjustor hubs. Anybody ever try to level a five-legged table?

Cotten

[aumick10]

One thing I have noticed on 4 speed clutches is that many clutch cables outers are not wound tight enough. When you pull in the clutch lever, the cable outer compresses and you loose clutch arm travel.
This is probably not as much a problem these days, as long as you use a good quality cable. The 4 speeds need all the travel they can get.
I always like to replace the steel pressure plate with an alloy one, personal preference.

[T. Cotten]

Its not a problem at all with a footclutch, Mick!

I encountered an aluminum pressure plate where the adjusting screw wasn't perpendicular, and chasing that demon down soured me.

....Cotten

[41craig]

Hi Robbie - Thanks for the response. I'm not familiar with the original v's aftermarket for these parts but some images are enclosed. You can see where I have ground the finger.

Greg

[ATTACH=CONFIG]27814[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]27815[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]27816[/ATTACH]

Greg; That throw out bearing looks like a V-Twin replica. I bought a couple of them when they came out with them. That recessed flat part, on top in pic # 2 is too thick. It messes with the clutch operation. Since then I've been buying good used ones. To test a used one, place it on the floor with the bearing side down. (The wide side). Put one foot on top and put your weight on it and twist. A good one will turn and feel smooth. You'll know a bad one. It won't be a smooth feel.
Craig

[aumick10]

Should have read the post better.
I think I remember a Al pressure plate that wasn't square as well. it was a long long time ago though.

[aumick10]

Its the drum that walks, Kitabel!

My chains were wearing out sideways; I'm a fan of the original Ram-Jet tamer or whatever it was called.
My experience with belts is very limited, but I would think a retainer would more than prudent, particularly with a footclutch.

And the "Big Fix" rollers were great for bridging over deep wear tracks.

But I'm no fan of the silly five-adjustor hubs. Anybody ever try to level a five-legged table?

Cotten

Is that why my 5 footed bar stools keep falling over!

[aumick10]

Hi Guys – This clutch appears to have been upgraded; it has the long roller bearings, the drive hub is in excellent condition, it has five clutch hub bearing plate springs, it has 5 steel plates, 6 friction (all clean, flat and deglazed), the springs look new (I haven’t measured them). The clutch push rod is 13 ¼” long. The clutch release lever has a slight bend in it but this looks normal, compared to pictures on the web.

I was told in an earlier post that the normal upgrade consists of less plates than I have.

Whilst the above set up seemed ok, on testing the bike prior to stripping down, the clutch did not disengage unless you screwed in the push rod adjusting screw. In order to get the more movement I have had to grind the clutch release finger, so the throw out bearing moves fully. This all seems to work now.

Question 1 - Is the above set up correct?

Question 2 – Should I install the ‘ram jett retainer’?

Thanks

Greg

[ATTACH=CONFIG]27808[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]27809[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]27810[/ATTACH]

Greg,
You definitely have an upgraded clutch, an extra steel and friction disk.
The springs are aftermarket, and look like they are heavier than stock. They look to be adjusted far to in. There is a measurement in the manual as to where they should be adjusted, but from memory, they typically only have one two threads showing.
I would suggest you put stock strength springs in and adjust again. Or take out the extra plates to give you some spring travel.
All the modifications to the hub bearings is OK in my opinion.
The pushrod must have some free play, otherwise you will burn the clutch end, and probably destroy the kicker end bearing. Just enough play so it still spins freely.

[T. Cotten]

Is that why my 5 footed bar stools keep falling over!

Its always the stool's fault, Mick!

About the the springs, please remember once again we are talking foot-clutch.

I found heavier the better; die springs and an extra big center spring gave my war-horse stroker pan with a hack much more 'feel', and eliminated slippage when 'hammered'.
(I no way condone such behavior as I enjoyed. *sigh*)

Only somebody with a forearm on steroids could have pulled them with a hand clutch. Just another reason footclutches rule.

....Cotten
PS: Just to clarify "feel", I never, ever ran with the clutch pedal dampener with any tension at all: Never had to ford a stream or walk it through ankle-deep mud.

[harleygreg]

Thanks Guys - very useful comments

Greg