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Synthetic oil in Panheads

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  • Synthetic oil in Panheads

    Looking for information on running 20-50 full synthetic in my 60 Panhead running straight 60# now

    Thanks Mark

  • #2
    You want it to really leak & die don't you?

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    • #3
      Good answer duffey, maid me chuckle. Mark,i run straight 50 in my 62 with no issues.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by duffeycycles View Post
        You want it to really leak & die don't you?
        No reason to be rude, is that what this Forum is about ?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by markreehl View Post
          No reason to be rude, is that what this Forum is about ?
          Welcome Mark!

          Sorry for Duffey's short answer, but that's best kind for an oil thread;
          Nobody wants to read a book.

          Please consider that that the promoted benefit of an expensive synthetic is extreme mileage.
          But your oil is going to get dirty, whether it survives that long or not.

          Then you are dumping money...

          ....Cotten
          PS: I've never used any, obviously.
          Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-23-2018, 03:28 PM.
          AMCA #776
          Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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          • #6
            Mark, as a recent newbie of owning a Panhead myself, I read a lot of what oil to use in these motors and came to a conclusion that it's not worth running synthetic oil. I run straight 60 in the summer and straight 50 during the cooler temps.
            Craig (Delaware)
            Delaware Bay Chapter
            Perkiomen Chapter
            AMCA Member #1011

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            • #7
              I run 60wt. in my '51FL, but have run 50. Here in Florida, you need something heavy. Enjoy your 1960 Pan, Mark; early Duo-Glides are among my favorite later H-Ds.
              Eric Smith
              AMCA #886

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              • #8
                My brother runs synthetic 20w50 in his Pan, I use straight 60 in everything except my wife's Evo.
                VPH-D

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                • #9
                  If your Panhead leaks a drop every mile with 50 weight it will leak 5 drops per mile with synthetic. Why? Because it penetrates better.
                  Be sure to visit;
                  http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
                  Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
                  Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/

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                  • #10
                    synthetic doesn't cling as long. It will run off of your internals possibly allowing corrosion. Not a problem on a bike that is ridden often, but possibly on one that sits for long periods.

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                    • #11
                      I have been running Valvoline 20-50 conventional racing oil in my 1964 Pan for many years. I change it and the filter every 1500 miles. I also run it in my 1965 BMW R50/2, 1972 BMW R75/5, 1978 1/2 HD FXS and I plan on using it in my 1972 Norton Combat Commando. Never had a problem, it has added ZZDP zinc and is labeled for race use only, I believe because it will damage catalytic converters. Frequency of oil changes is very important and I have been told I could increase the oil change intervals but my magic number on all of my bikes is 1500 miles. It is reasonably priced by the case on line. Synthetics are for EVO's and up.

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                      • #12
                        I run conventional 20w-50 in my 65 pan sidecar rig as it doesn't murder the starter like the heavier oils. The last time I had to kick it because of 60w slowing the starter I blew out my knee and I learned a lesson. But I only ride it locally and for short trips. Maybe because of this I have not developed any significant leaks.

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                        • #13
                          You guys that run 20/50 in your '60s pans are you running stock hydraulic lifters? Any problems keeping them up?
                          Bob Rice #6738

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                          • #14
                            If I get the 65 really hot one the (front exhaust) will try to bleed down, but it did the same with 60w. Im considering solids. Have tried switching up the hydraulic units but nothing changed.

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                            • #15
                              The motor company had a fix for the bleed down.It was a service bullitin in shovel era.It said to loctight the hydraulic units in the lifter body for a better seal.I just did a '63 that had the front was so loose that I replaced the lifter body & hydraulic unit.The side play went from really bad knock sound to nice & quiet.The front exhaust is at such an angle the side play makes them clatter or knock.I have found that mine made less clatter when hot at idle to almost no clatter by changing to Valvoline 50w.I had a customer that ran 20/50 in his '65 as told to him by the dealer when he bought it used in '73.No problems from oil.

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