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Robbie,
Have you done this/seen it done?
VPH-D
Have you done this/seen it done?
VPH-D
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I've seen it with both a cable and a rod. The rod was linked to the juice pedal with a turnbuckle affair in it to adjust the pull. The cable was similar with a bracket attached to the bike frame to hold an adjuster and locate the outer. It was made out of an early Sportster clutch cable. I imagine it would be a bit tricky to get the brake adjusted initially but then it shouldn't need any more other than for wear.Robbie Knight Amca #2736Comment
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Let's see Folks!Originally posted by Rubone View Post
Is it easier and safer to cobble a linkage, or suffer to make the OEM brake work comfortably, or just eliminate the extraneous variable altogether?
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 03-16-2018, 05:55 PM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!Comment
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Funny comment from a guy who thinks all cobbled together stuff needs to be preserved for "history"Is it easier and safer to cobble a linkage, or suffer to make the OEM brake work comfortably, or just eliminate the extraneous variable altogether?Robbie Knight Amca #2736Comment
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OK, according to my 58-68 reprint parts book, The backing plates have the same part number, the shoes are the same, there are 2 part numbers, early 58 with stamped drum and late 58 to the last drum brake with cast drums. The cylinders are different. and the drums are different. have not measured, but have been told it's same casting with flange for sprocket machined off.* The side-car axle is the same from 36 to the mid-star (mid 67)
* what I was told was not to toss a rear drum because the flange was missing a piece. We'd just make a side-car drum out of it!Comment
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I like the ones that have seperate control for the sidecar.You have it when you need it.Some I have ridden have two pedals some have hand brake for the car.I agree they stop much quicker with a brake.Comment
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