Rocker Arm Cover Pad

[BigLakeBob]

Take the time to make sure your covers are as flat as possible. Bend, dolly, twist, file, whatever it takes to get them flat, time spent now will be appreciated later. Try Yamabond or Yamalube, could be sacrilege to use Yamaha gasket sealer. But its like the felt glue, whatever works best for you. I would stay away from the cork gaskets.

[Steve Little]

Steve, I bought some of the aftermarket oilers. I have not used them, but like most aftermarket they look pretty cheesy compared to original. I'll check later to see how they fit on the studs and let you know.

Thanks Bob.
Look forward to product appraisal

[BigLakeBob]

Sorry for the delay Steve, also tried to add a picture by using insert image for the 3rd different post and was refused again, sorry. Why does it have to be so hard to add a picture? Anyway Steve, after another look not as cheesy as I first thought. The unit fits on the studs just fine. I would say made from some mild steel and plated a white zinc or chrome. It has the oil groove running down from the front stud to the tube. Like all oilers it will need bent for the correct height from the arm. The main difference I see but probably won't matter is, the original has a flat crimp to hold the ball with about an 1/8" diameter hole for the oil to exit, the aftermarket has a round or conical crimp to hold the ball with about an 3/32" hole. Overall length of the tube is pretty close to orig. Thickness of bracket is about the same. Not a bad unit overall, sorry for the initial poor rating. I would say worth buying if you don't have oem. Tedd # 11-0530 front, 11-0531 rear.

[Steve Little]

Sorry for the delay Steve, also tried to add a picture by using insert image for the 3rd different post and was refused again, sorry. Why does it have to be so hard to add a picture? Anyway Steve, after another look not as cheesy as I first thought. The unit fits on the studs just fine. I would say made from some mild steel and plated a white zinc or chrome. It has the oil groove running down from the front stud to the tube. Like all oilers it will need bent for the correct height from the arm. The main difference I see but probably won't matter is, the original has a flat crimp to hold the ball with about an 1/8" diameter hole for the oil to exit, the aftermarket has a round or conical crimp to hold the ball with about an 3/32" hole. Overall length of the tube is pretty close to orig. Thickness of bracket is about the same. Not a bad unit overall, sorry for the initial poor rating. I would say worth buying if you don't have oem. Tedd # 11-0530 front, 11-0531 rear.

Thanks for the excellent review. I wasn't in a rush.
Regards Steve

[Rubone]

The only issue I can think of on the repop is the circular crimp would lend itself to the ball seating in it and not allowing the oil to pass. It seems the OEM type with the flat crimp would better prevent the ball from sticking and cutting off the flow.

[Steve Little]

The only issue I can think of on the repop is the circular crimp would lend itself to the ball seating in it and not allowing the oil to pass. It seems the OEM type with the flat crimp would better prevent the ball from sticking and cutting off the flow.

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Merit in that thinking Robbie.
I haven't seen the aftermarket unit, but a full round crimp would serve as a complete seat...which isn't the function needed.
This original unit has 2 flat sides pressed into the end which stops the rattle passing through and allows oil to pass on the round portions.

I had a close look under magnification and took some pics for those of us with ADD.
Harley have used 3/8” solid round bar and turned it down and drilled it to form a tube with a flanged end.
It also has a rolled nose on the end of the tube that drips oil. The clean little press marks on the sides are a witness mark of the a pressing die. Perhaps a small mandrel has been placed inside the tube and the 2 flat sides have been pressed to keep the dowel in.
I thought it was a ball bearing rattling up and down the tube but after a bit of probing with piano wire I think the rattle inside is a 1/2” long dowel with a round end.

Has anyone ever played Wheelin the wrecker with one of these?? I haven't got any to sacrifice.

Cant say I've ever looked this closely at them before. Just cleaned them and not looked at the method of construction.

[BigLakeBob]

Great thoughts there Robbie, makes sense what you say. Such a simple unit becomes not so simple, good discussion. Thanks Steve for your assessment.

[Steve Little]

For the sake of further intellectual discussion you might adopt the following pose; eyebrows lowered, lips pursed, and rub thumb over chin stubble.
If we go a little deeper into the design function of this little unassuming part, I have a couple of questions for your consideration.
If the rattle inside this unit was simply an obstruction to regulate oil, would it need to move?
The rattle has been designed with 1/8" to 3/16" movement....what is the function of the movement, or put another way, what was the designer looking for in this movement?
A ball bearing would have been cheaper to use in production and effected the same coverage, so if the rattle turns out to be a 1/2" long dowel...was the intention to use something with a bit of weight?
When we rattle these units back and forth to check them, is this an exaggerated motion of the intended use?...eg, using vibration of the engine as the energy to drive it.

Regards Steve

[T. Cotten]

Even though I am short of significant "stubble" since my last bath, Steve,..

Yes, I believe the ball was meant to 'rattle' as a 'controlled' leak, or perhaps a pump of oil reserved behind it.
Certainly over-engineering,.. in complete contrast to the simple reservoir of oil stored for "dry" start-ups in the felts (used previously in Indian Fours, and probably others.)

Let's really complicate things with the '48-only copper seal washers under the oilers.
Are they a clue?

Conjure on, Folks!

...Cotten

[Steve Little]

Hi Tom.
Yep your right on the complication thing.
I am not familiar with the 1948 washers you have posted.
Perhaps you could un-complicate the post by elaborating on the function of them.

Let's really complicate things with the '48-only copper seal washers under the oilers.
Are they a clue?

Conjure on, Folks!

...Cotten

The english definition of Conjure:
To call upon or command (a devil or spirit) by invocation or spell. 4. to call or bring into existence by or as if by magic

How is this tied in with the subject or discusion.

Regards Steve

[T. Cotten]

...The english definition of Conjure:
To call upon or command (a devil or spirit) by invocation or spell. 4. to call or bring into existence by or as if by magic

How is this tied in with the subject or discusion.

Regards Steve

Its simple, Steve!

Panheads are diabolical.

....Cotten
PS: If you don't think so, just consider the early hydraulic units.