Fork Lock 1965 FLH

[craig (DE)]

I'm trying to find a few items for my new to me 1965 FLH. I'm looking for a key for the fork lock. There is no number on the face of the lock and wondering if anyone has ideas on getting a key made or just trying to replace the whole lock.

Thanks!

[Magic]

A good locksmith can easily make a key which is the same as your main key and those original Briggs & Stratton key blanks are also still available as well. Many of those locks freeze up from lack of lubrication and can free up. Changing/Replacing the lock is interesting and will require patience and scraping the frame for the pin location (around 3 O Clock) although not difficult.

[craig (DE)]

Thanks Magic. It appears I also don't have the original main key switch since it has a larger cover going over the key hole.

[Rooster]

Removing the fork lock is a challenge. Once the keeper pin is located as mentioned above, it must be removed. The stock pin is solid, 3/32" diameter, and about 1/4" long. A good Tig welder can weld the end of a filler rod to the end of the pin, then carefully persuade it to rotate, with a small diagonal cutter or pliers. Once it's able to rotate, it can be worked out.
With the pin removed, now the lock itself can be rotated back and forth and worked out, but it's best to use a key to do this. A blank key will work, and there are aftermarket keys with B&S profile available.
Now the locking pin itself can be checked that it moves in and out freely. If the grease is hardened solid or the pin frozen in the bore, the job starts to get complicated. Now the front end must be removed. Then remove the welsh plug; it comes out easily by pushing it out from inside the fork neck. The pin can be removed, using a screwdriver reaching in the lock bore and engaging the slot in the pin, until enough of the pin protrudes into the neck to grab with pliers. There is a short spring behind the pin that must also be removed. The lock pin bore can now be thoroughly cleaned, and if needed, reamed with a 1/2" ream.
At this point, a new lock can be installed. That's a whole new procedure that I can explain later if need be. My point here is to describe the procedure to remove the fork lock, and the lock pin. Obviously you want to avoid it if at all possible.
With no key code, you'll have to take the bike to a locksmith who can cut a key by the feel of the wafers inside. It's not hard nor expensive.
However- if the lock is frozen, cutting a key may not even be possible. Consult your locksmith. If that's the case, start applying a penetrating oil every day. Kroil or PB-Blaster are good choices. It may take weeks, actually, to free the corroded wafers inside.

However, the later style Briggs & Stratton fork locks are readily available. These are the style with the stainless steel cover. Bill Morris (Bills Custom Cycle) sells them. Just be prepared to go through the process I just described to remove the old lock.
I should point out too, that if the small keeper pin holding the lock cylinder in is a hollow roll pin, that's a whole new story. It's usually not possible to weld a rod to the end of the roll pin, or very difficult at best. Success may be a 1-in-10 or 20 proposition, and even when successful, oftentimes the pin will break off.
So, now what?
Easy. Get out the torch and melt the lock out. The housing is made of lead, which quickly melts out, and the guts can be pried out with a screwdriver. If the lock is not to be saved, this is the easiest way. Obviously, the paint touchup just got more difficult, too.
My apologies to all for the lengthy dissertation on a subject that's probably common knowledge to begin with.
Best of luck with your lock, hopefully it's not frozen, and none of this matters!
Tom

[craig (DE)]

Great explanation Tom! I'll look into finding a local locksmith and see if a key can be cut for my existing lock before tackling your instructions.