Getting started

[T. Cotten]

Stewart!

It would seem to be a simple weld repair.
Removing and replacing the "squish" pipe does not require surgery!

The frame inspection procedure from the rigid model manual applies quite well to swingarm models as well. The most difficult aspect is to do the math to make whatever straightedges you come up with can be corrected to the strange sizes in the book.
The whole idea is to "sweep" a straightedge (usually rod stock) in the headstock with a long one braced between a vertical stuck in a transmission mount, and held against the seatpost member. The straightedge (often conduit or an 8' fluorescent bulb) must not actually contact the headstock straightedge, because the distance between them shows their alignment.
The skew of the axle plane and other points can usually be visually judged with long rods placed within them, and massaging (cold) to straight only takes patience, and threaded rod, screwpresses, and other primitive means.

Even if you choose to send it off, your inspection will at least give the servicepersons some idea of what he is dealing with when you contact them.

And my shop currently offers carburetor and manifold services only, as common catalog hardware must often be corrected, and the rest of my inventory was either custom-cut, or commissioned to support my services.
(We are not accepting head or frame work either. I am still looking for someone to take over!)

....Cotten

[T. Cotten]

Stewart!

I have only had time today to move your pic of the carb break-down on a flashdrive so I could view it on another computer, but it is encouraging that the bowl has a flat face-cut around the bottom crushwasher surface, as a late-'64-'65 should.
It is smaller than most, and the pic is not clear for me. Is there a small letter stamp upon it, like the example in my first attachment?
(If not, I would really appreciate a clearer pic for my studies!)

It also appears that much of the original cadmium plating has survived, even upon the lowspeed lift lever, which is rare.
Please be gentle with all of it.

Although you hesitate to take it apart further, I am compelled to repeat my earlier warning that there can be contaminants trapped within the void around the outside of the venturi. An extreme example is my second attachment.

And please note that the shim washer upon the cable block should be beneath the lever, to keep the cotter pin from hanging up, and placing it in the other hole will give more throw to its action.

And the screw-locking compound upon the float identifys it as a factory original "Armstrong". It is doomed to swelling in modern fuels, perhaps even more than modern molded mass-produced offerings.

More when I can view it better tonight on a more modern PC,

....Cotten
PS: Please note the few remaining specks of the original black "lacquer" upon the body in my first attachment. Even today, it is difficult to find a finish that will resist fuels. After continuous searching, I still have found nothing economical.

[Stewarts65]

That is good to know that it is an early carburetor. This is supposed to be a 29,000 mi bike and was kept inside. I would like to know if you think the float would last long enough to get it started with out hurting anything. Since I will be sending the frame out for repair, I was thinking of sending your shop the carb afterwards for an overhaul. There is a #14 on the bowl and will post pics. Or send me your email and I will send you a link to my Photobucket acct.

Stewart

[T. Cotten]

Stewart!

Technically, it is a "late" Linkert, as it was the last of three decades of the Model M.

The life of the float depends entirely upon what comes out of the gas pump.
If you shut the petcock and run it out of gas each time you put the machine away, it could last quite a while.

Your photos uploaded nicely.

...Cotten

[Doc Wood]

Hello Stewart,

I am in Fort Worth and getting started on my '64 FL project. Did you find any reputable frame shops in the DFW area? How about a good case welder, machine shop ? I have one broken front motor mount that needs repair.I would like to stay a little more local also but will ship out of state if necessary. Any recommendations from other forum members on frame staightening is welcome.

Thanks,
Doc / AMCA #23387

[Stewarts65]

Doc, I have not really looked in the DFW area yet. I wanted to get my 65 started first to see if I had any other issues that would require removing the motor. I got it started yesterday and there is a video link below. I did not hear any knocking or any thing that I thought was bad. It seems to only need a good tune-up. I am relieved that I did not make a bad decision buying this bike. I now feel that I can weld a repair patch on the frame myself if I can find a piece of frame from someone. I have my own tig and mig welders and just retired from GM as a maintenance welder. I have only just found a shop in Haltom City, The Hog Shop. They worked on a friend of mines 66FL Police bike and he was pleased with the work. When I told them about my frame they said they could fix it. I do not know much about them but other than what my friend told me.
I have a question, is it normal for the rockers to make the valve covers move in the center? When I was cranking the starter I could see the rockers hitting the valve covers. When I got it running I could not hear anything hitting.

Stewart

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZsRvpPU7JQ

[T. Cotten]

Stewart!

By "in the center", do you mean like in the attachment?

Never saw it happen.

....Cotten
PS: You will find it satisfying to do your own framework.

[Stewarts65]

Yes where your white arrows are. It was very slight. While I was cranking it over to get oil circulated before starting I noticed it. I decided to go ahead and start it since it was supposed to have been driven to where it was parked for the last 6-7 years. I am going to replace the down tube seals and readjust the push rods.
I think the frame will not be to hard as long as I go slow and not get a lot of heat build-up.

Stewart

[Magic]

I can see my Pan covers flex a little in the center from the engine pressure within more so when the Engine is Cold.

[Stewarts65]

Magic, I started it again yesterday and let it warm up completely to tweak the carb a little more. After it was warmed you could not tell they were moving. Laid my hand on top and could not feel anything. Must be pressure as you said. Now I will pull the wheels to check bearings and brakes. Did the FLH have chrome rims with painted hubs and spokes? A couple spokes look like they have a silver paint on them but most look dirty and a little rusty. The hubs are covered in grease so I can't tell what kind of finish is on them until I get them off.

[BigLakeBob]

[QUOTE Now I will pull the wheels to check bearings and brakes. Did the FLH have chrome rims with painted hubs and spokes? A couple spokes look like they have a silver paint on them but most look dirty and a little rusty. The hubs are covered in grease so I can't tell what kind of finish is on them until I get them off.[/QUOTE]


Black painted hubs, cadmium plated spokes, chrome rims.

[Stewarts65]

Thanks Bob. Did get the wheels off today and found the rear sprocket is worn but the drums are very smooth. It must have had a brake job done soon before it was stored. They used the wrong wheel cylinder, as you can see the hole is for a larger port area where the brake line connects. The drum has a cup tacked welded to the back side of the dowel pins. Is that common? It looks like a grease deflector. I am going to get new sprocket put on the drum if my shop can do the rivets and the drum is within specs. Will replace the hose as it is dry rotting. The front looks very good just need to clean the side cover and drum. How does the cover come off? It looks like the axle sleeve and pivot stud should side out once you get the nut off but they are tight. Never have done this and the manual doesn't say. It also looks like at some point the drive chain broke and took out the front of the rear fender.

[BigLakeBob]

While you are working on the rear brakes you may want to spray a penetrating oil on the brake shoe adjusters and make sure they work. I turn a 3/8 socket extension around and put the square drive on the adjuster then put a 12 point 7/16 socket (if I remember right) on the actual extension square. Hope that makes sense. Be careful when you get to the master cylinder, these are real hard to come by anymore and the aftermarket ones are not the most desirable item.

[Stewarts65]

Makes perfect sense. I was going to replace the mc because it has lots of rust on the chrome and the cap is crumbling, so I don't think it is the original. It still works. V-Twin sells one I saw on a web site, MAS CLASSICS-VINTAGE AMERICAN MOTORCYCLE PARTS. Do you or anyone else recommend where I should buy one?

[Rollo]

I have several Wagner ones I have picked up as spares. Even if the bore is a little cruddy you can put a hone to it and clean it up. Rebuild kits are available but not from Wager so unless you can find some laying on a shelf at an old auto parts store you are going to end up wit an after market one. Some Jeeps used the same master cylinder so you may be able to find something at a junk yard. Good luck!

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA#12766