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compensating sprocket removal

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  • compensating sprocket removal

    Need some advice on removing compensating sprocket on my 61 FLH. Engine was recently rebuilt however mechanic turned off primary oiler. Heard some knocking in the case after a few hundred miles. Primary chain was the color of rust(totally dry), extremely loose, and has a lot of lateral play. Needs to be replaced but the sprocket won't budge using all methods used previously. Any suggestions?

  • #2
    Do you have a jam bar to lock the drive sprocket with the clutch sprocket? If not, build yourself one and if you can get a 3/4" drive socket and a power bar you can do some serious reefing. If it still won't budge try a snipe on it. It should pop free with enough leverage.

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    • #3
      Thanks, I do have a jam bar however the compensating nut is built for a spanner style wrench not a socket. I had one that I built several years ago to fit a 1/2 drive air impact and has worked but no this time. Not sure what a snipe is, do you mean cheater? Where I'm from a snipe is something you hunt at night with a paper sack and a flashlight.

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      • #4
        I sprung for one from Jim's when I replaced my chain on the 64. Afterwards I wished I had just made one myself. Just drill a couple holed thru a piece of plate, insert a couple hardened pins thru the holes and tack weld on the back side then weld an old 1/2" drive socket between the dowels so you can use a breaker bar. Or just buy one!...Mike

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        • #5
          The one I built and tried to use was made of 5/16 plate hardend pins and a 1/2 drive socket. Used a breaker bar with a cheater, bent the bar. Used an air impact, shattered the socket welded to the plate. Have one coming from Jim's. Hope it works. Thanks
          Bob

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          • #6
            Well I couldn't wait for the Jims spanner so I built another one based on their design. This time I used a 3/4 drive intead of the 1/2. Air wrench didn't work. Thinking the mechanic had used red loctite I used a heat gun on nut for about ten minutes then used a six foot cheater on my breaker bar. Success! Note to self "don't use red loctite on compensating nut"

            Bob

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            • #7
              Bob, I would also suggest useing the jam bar when you tighten it back up, just to prevent any stress where the sprocket shaft is fastened to the flywheel. caution is cheap!...Mike

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              • #8
                My problem isn't removing the compensating nut, but getting it off the splined engine shaft. I have not used any heat or major force at all- what is typical here?
                Dan Margolien
                Yankee Chapter National Meet July 31/August 1 2020 at the TERRYVILLE Fairgounds, Terryville CT.
                Www.yankeechapter.org
                Pocketvalve@gmail.com

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                • #9
                  It probably went without grease, try some penetrating oil...

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