1954 FL frames changes

[Rodger Brandstatter]

Does anyone out there have an original frame 1954 FL with an engine serial number of approximately 4000? Or, does anyone know at what production number Harley-Davidson changed from the flattened front tube wishbone frame (early '54), to the round front tube wishbone frame (mid '54), to the late '54 straight-leg frame? I have a '54 FL engine (serial number is slightly over 4000), transmission, etc. for a restoration project, but no frame. I would like to know which frame I should be looking for that would be correct for my production number.

[Chris Haynes]

Factory blueprint puts the change to straight bar frame at frame number 3,000. That would be bike number 4,000, more or less.

[Rodger Brandstatter]

Thanks for the reply Chris. Your info is probably a good thing. My engine number is right at the changover period, and that would leave my options open for whichever frame I might be able to find, or possibly go with a replica frame. I think it might be prety hard to find an original frame that hasn't been cut-up, or cut-up and later put back together. I've heard some good things about the V-twin replica frames, but I haven't actually seen one.

[kg993]

I ordered a straight leg replica last year. It looked real good, not an exact copy of origional but pretty close. I am thinking it would be stronger than stock.
Kerry

[Robert Luland]

Good Ruck round eye!

[HD48FL]

Good Ruck round eye!

Exactly, I wouldn't go with the vtwin frame because of that.

If you want a good reproduction frame, try: http://www.raceframe.com.au/
I've never seen one, but Steve's frames are accurate reproductions and he is on this forum from time to time.

[Rollo]

I agree about race frame frames.
I bought one a year or two ago directly from Steve for a 41 knuckle and even with shipping and duty it was cheaper than finding a beat one and fixing it plus it isn't 50-60 year old metal possibly suffering internally or externally. I still have the original frame which I will get repaired some day for a 40 flat head project but at the price and quality of origianal frames I will use Steve's frame for anything that I don't already have one for. All the hallmark and casting numbers are there so to the casual observers it looks stock. Also all of the one year only features such as ground tabs, horn mount tabs etc. are correct. All you need to do is dry fit things to make sure your sheet metal or other parts don't need tweaking, paint and assemble. It is about as hassle free as you can get. He even reams the seat post and brake cross over bushings to OEM size fits.

Rollo
AMCA # 12766

[junkyarddog]

Exactly, I wouldn't go with the vtwin frame because of that.

If you want a good reproduction frame, try: http://www.raceframe.com.au/
I've never seen one, but Steve's frames are accurate reproductions and he is on this forum from time to time.

All I hear about Teds frame is that nothing fits right and if you return his junk you have to pay a re stock fee.

Jim Rowin
Omaha, Ne.

[Chris Haynes]

The Knuck frame I got from Tedd did need the rear axle plate tweaked. Also the top motor mount didn't line up correctly but I can't blame Tedd. My engine is built of aftermarket cases, cylinders and stock heads. The problem could have been with them. At any rate twisting the axle plate to make it straight was no big deal and removing the welds and re-welding the top motor mount wasn't exactly brain surgery. All in all a good frame for a street bike at an affordable price.