Neck post

[whitey1j0]

I'm having trouble with the neck post on this Heinz 57 i,m trying to build, after I installed the bottom tree and neck post, and steering adjusting nut, there isn't enough threads left to put on the top tree, also is this the correct nut for the post, Thanks Whitey

[bikes7376]

are you sure the bottem bearing is all the down agaist the dust cover and bottem tree? I cant really see in the pic but that could do it unless someone hacked off a portion of the stem.Wait just looked again and that nut for setting the lash is way thick.THe top dust shield is like paper thin and the star nut slams into it setting the preload im not sure where that nut come from in the pic it looks 1 piece with the dust shield and is taken up realestate for the top tree and set nut

[Robert Luland]

Whitey, I don't want to wreck your day but let me lay this out for ya. First off the neck shaft has not been cut. Those aftermarket cups you have on the frame look higher than normal. I got a stock one in front of me and the cup that sits on the frame measures 21/32" high or .6640. The spline nut or upper head bearing seat measures 5/16" from the inside shoulder that sits on the bearing to the top shoulder that sits into the top tree. If you plan to run tins? You must use the 49-59 bearing cups for the earlier bearing or the hole on the tins will not line up with the ears on the trees. There is no dust shield on the upper bearing as it appears that you have one there. That big top nut you have is 60 and up and will not allow you to run the stock steering damper if you choose. Here's another tip that will keep from ripping out your hair in the future. There are three 1/4" holes on the top tree in front of the hole. I just run a 1/4-20 tap down them and after I assemble the top tree, I put a set screw in the one that aligns with one of the slots on the lower nut. I always felt that this was the factories intent. The lower nut has a way of working it's self loose sometimes. Bob L

[whitey1j0]

Thanks for the info. I kinda thought that might be the problem

[Chris Haynes]

You have bearing races for a swing arm frame. Rigid frame bearing cups are shorter.

[Robert Luland]

Chris, I don't know where you got that 60 and up aftermarket piece of junk but earlier and later cups are identical. The only difference being the inside bore for the bearing race. The earlier being a smaller race that made the bearing sit up higher along with fewer rollers. Without a caliber you can’t tell them apart. An earlier race will fit into a later cup loosely. If you’re going to make a point Emanuel, at least do it with oem parts. Bob L

[Chris Haynes]

Chris, I don't know where you got that 60 and up aftermarket piece of junk but earlier and later cups are identical. The only difference being the inside bore for the bearing race. The earlier being a smaller race that made the bearing sit up higher along with fewer rollers. Without a caliber you can’t tell them apart. An earlier race will fit into a later cup loosely. If you’re going to make a point Emanuel, at least do it with oem parts. Bob L

You are mistaken Robert. If you doubt it check with ol' Tedd. He is never wrong.

[vph-d]

Replace the top dust shield/nut you have now with stock pieces and everything should work. Probably half the Panheads out there are running a mixture of stock and aftermarket neck bearings and it is no big deal.
VPH-D

[whitey1j0]

I measured the height of the race and it's .690, also the bottom race wasn,t completely seated, I also found a correct nut in a box of old parts, everything seems to be going together fine now, except for the problem of finding a decent pair of used stock tubes, someone out there have a pair I would be interested, Thanks Whitey

[bikes7376]

the factory parts books list the same equipment to install a frontend from 1936 to present and having just rebearing my 2002 springer and needing new dust shields i was forced into a local stealership to get them and blew the counter genious's mind when he asked what year and i being a smartass told him to pick one he couldnt believe that it was the same hardware for that long.

[Robert Luland]

I measured the height of the race and it's .690, also the bottom race wasn,t completely seated, I also found a correct nut in a box of old parts, everything seems to be going together fine now, except for the problem of finding a decent pair of used stock tubes, someone out there have a pair I would be interested, Thanks Whitey

Good man! I like to see persistent resolve. If there's anything else I can help ya with. Don't hesitate to ask. Bob L

[Chris Haynes]

the factory parts books list the same equipment to install a frontend from 1936 to present and having just rebearing my 2002 springer and needing new dust shields i was forced into a local stealership to get them and blew the counter genious's mind when he asked what year and i being a smartass told him to pick one he couldnt believe that it was the same hardware for that long.

Sorry to tell you this. Springer forks from 1936-1948 used ball bearings. With the Hydra-Glide fork came Timken bearings. They have gone through at least three different numbers of Timken bearings since then. Whoever told you all were the same from 1936 to date is full of crap.

[len dowe]

Chris is right.

[bikes7376]

look in any parts manual it states 49-present year including the stealership parts books excuse me i accidently posted 36 probably since i am up to my ears restoring early springers at the time

[Rubone]

look in any parts manual it states 49-present year including the stealership parts books

Really??
Not in any of my parts books!!!
Robbie