'64 Police Pan=dual point dist/coil

[DaveBall]

I am having a hard time starting my 64 Pan. I did a complete restoration, but the engine was completely rebuilt 2yrs ago by a pro, and has aprox. 1800 miles since then. I have a new s+s E carb and a mild cam. My thought is that the original coil may be getting weak, but I dont know how to test it. Once running, it seems to run fine, but starting ( hot or cold ) is getting very embarrasing, and wearing me out! Dual points seem ok @ .022, and plugs also seem ok. Anyone have any ideas on what I could try? tks. Dave Ball

[oldsouthmcy]

Dave,

Without actually seeing the bike and how it was timed, I am going to say it is the timing. Dual-point pans are not the easiest to time. Only the front cylinder points are set to .022" and left as .022". The rear can be set to .022" as a starting point but will likely end up at a different setting.

After the front points gap is set, the spark advance is adjusted with the front cylinder timing mark in position when the front cylinder is under compression (I use a static light hooked between battery positive post and the front points' terminal [a second wire is run from the negative post and the timer base] that goes out when the points break, indicating full advance and set the breaker to that exact moment).

Once the spark advance is set, bring up the rear cylinder timing mark into position when the rear cylinder in under compression. Next, with the timer fully advanced, set the rear points using the points' adjustment screw so that they just break (the static light, hooked up to the rear points' terminal, goes out). After the points are set and if you want, see what the rear point gap is. You will find it to be anything from .019" and .023".

The fact that it runs fairly well once running is a good indication there is nothing wrong with the coils.

Also, don't discount the condensors, a weak condensor will make for hard starting & dual point breakers make condensor changing a bear (usually requiring the points & timing to be reset). Indication of a weak or too hot a condensor is point transference.

[DaveBall]

Thank you very much oldsouthmcy, your advice was spot on. During my struggles with this problem I also found out that my hot wire to the coils was only hanging on by a couple of strands. I'm sure this didn't help my problem, and I should have checked all the simple things first! My dual coils check out at 2.1 ohms each, and I checked out a friends dual coils that also were 2.1 ohms each. I have seen hotter coils at 3 - 5 ohms for 12v. systems, does anyone know if my coils are as good as they get, or it there a better - hotter coil available for my 6v. dual point system? The bike starts much better now that I've done the timing and obvious wire issue, but I am still curious about a hotter spark when starting..my battery is fine. Thanks for any help. -DaveBall

[awander]

The resistance of a coil does not indicate how "hot" it is. As a matter of fact, if everything else was equal, the coil with the lower resistance would be hotter.

[tomfiii]

You should also check lifter settings,manifold tight?