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Rear sprocket riveting tool wanted

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  • Rear sprocket riveting tool wanted

    Im looking for an original rear sprocket riveting tool HD part# 12067 X or a source for a reproduction.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Cash or parts to trade!!!

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    • #3
      One sold on ebay yesterday. $160.00-$180.00 range if I recall....Rod

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      • #4
        I have been looking, i guess not hard enough. I would definitely pay that for the tool.
        Last edited by Matt McManus; 12-04-2010, 01:26 PM.

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        • #5
          If you want the sprocket rivets to hold, not loosen and all shear eventually, leaving you stranded, just use an air hammer. Anyone in an auto body shop could do it.
          Gerry Lyons #607
          http://www.37ul.com/
          http://flatheadownersgroup.com/

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          • #6
            Rivet Tool

            Originally posted by Sargehere View Post
            If you want the sprocket rivets to hold, not loosen and all shear eventually, leaving you stranded, just use an air hammer. Anyone in an auto body shop could do it.
            You might get away with a air hammer on early drums.
            I replaced many sprockets when I was in the business.
            I made adapters for my jig to do all the different drums.
            If you use an air hammer on hydraulic cast drums you are looking for a cracked flange.
            I had a customer that had a great time saving idea. He tried to remove a sprocket from a 67/72 thick flanged drum in a 50 ton press. I sold him a brake drum.
            The secret to using the factory jig is having some skill.
            The rivets you might get are to long sometimes so cut them down to about 1 & 1/2 the diameter above the sprocket
            Jim
            Last edited by junkyarddog; 12-04-2010, 03:27 PM. Reason: stupid

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            • #7
              Most of those selling on ebay are for the WL series of brake drums. Jerry

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              • #8
                Originally posted by junkyarddog View Post
                You might get away with a air hammer on early drums. ...Jim
                For people who are shopping, the PN 12067-42 is the one for the 45 brake drum. PN 12067-X is for Big Twins, at least through '57.
                Only working on my '37, about 40 years, and an air hammer used judiciously works just fine. It's all in the touch, and common sense.
                Gerry Lyons #607
                http://www.37ul.com/
                http://flatheadownersgroup.com/

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                • #9
                  I was wondering if anyone is making a QUALITY reproduction of the 1206-X sprocket riveting tool. I used to use one years ago and with a little finness, it worked very well with either a pneumatic rivet gun or manual setting. I'm currently attempting to rivet a new sprocket onto my '47 brake drum and I'm having a heck of a time keeping the rivet heads flush to the sprockert. Also compounding the task is the fact that the drum is freshly painted. The 1206-X tool would really be the answer before I go off on some time-consuming tool-building tangent...
                  Thanks,
                  Bill Pedalino
                  Huntington, New York
                  AMCA 6755

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                  • #10
                    Problem solved...

                    I used an old sprocket turned upside down installed against the new rivet heads. I used several small C-clamps to clamp the old sprocket to the new one, thus sandwiching the new rivet heads inbetween with the old sprocket positioned between the rivet heads and the bucking bar.

                    I moved the c-clamps around as I progressed to keep them fairly close to the rivet in question in order to avoid any bounce while hammering the rivet down. I had to sequence rivets vs. dowels as the heads on the dowels are deeper than the those of the rivets.

                    The result: It took a bit of time to continually adjust the C-clamps and to manage the rivets vs the dowels, but in the end all rivets and dowels were set to full tightness against the dust ring with all heads flush against the the sprocket. I'm very pleased.

                    But I would still love to find that1206-X rivet arbor!
                    Bill Pedalino
                    Huntington, New York
                    AMCA 6755

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                    • #11
                      Gosh Folks,

                      You make it sound so hard, when a simple jig is easy to make.
                      If you diegrinder the anvil just right, it won't leave a ring on the heads of the rivets.
                      The press attachment is half of an old valve. held on with an old fork boot.

                      Air hammers are for taking them off, not putting them on!

                      ....Cotten
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by T. Cotten; 05-25-2014, 12:34 PM.
                      AMCA #776
                      Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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                      • #12
                        Nice setup Cotton - pretty much what I had in mind, but for the one sprocket in ten years that I change, right now it wasn't worth the time. Thanks yet again for sharing. When I have the time to enjoy doing it, I will be making a similar tool at some point.
                        Bill Pedalino
                        Huntington, New York
                        AMCA 6755

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                        • #13

                          This is one that I made. It has a step on it to rest on any bench vise. Made several different centering collars that fit over the pin, between doing this and the adjustable boss; sportsters, mech BT and both early and later hydraulic can be done on the same fixture. In the boss I have a hardened recess to accept the rivet head and note the clamp that holds the sprocket to the drum to insure a tight fit. Once you adjust the boss for the diameter drum just spin it on the center boss, the centering bosses are made with steps to adjust the height for each different drum so the boss can remain the same height.
                          Bob Rice #6738

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