36 Knuckle Rear Brake Linkage Question?

[Sargehere]

Just piss in a cup and throw it in. In two days you'll have all the patina ya need. Bob

Bob Luland's right. Or a quick dip in and out of muriatic acid, the stuff you use to eat oil off concrete floors. "Instant Patina That stuff will rust things with just the fumes (Warning: don't never, ever, spill any muriatic acid in your garage/shop. All your tools and every other thing will rust in a matter of days). You can neutalize it with baking soda. Lots of baking soda.

[Robert Luland]

Just piss in a cup and throw it in. In two days you'll have all the patina ya need. Bob

[Lonnie]

You should have picked it up, they make great flower pots.

[46EL]

Just got back from a quick run to look at the toilet. Totally dissapointed as the thing was gutted internally. Must be somebody else in my neighborhood working on an early Knuckle?? Really don't want to do the Hardware Store shiny brand new chain thing as I need a chain with some patina on it.. Gotta keep lookin for more toilets.. Jp

[46EL]

I'm serious when I say I saw an older style Toilet somebody threw out on the side of the road today. I'll go back later tonight to check it out when it gets dark. Maybe tommorrow I can let you know what make and model and estimated year the toilet is and whether or not the chain looks correct. Gotta borrow ny nephews car so nobody recognizes me. Jp.

[Steve Little]

Hi Sarge.

I have his card info@antiquehdparts.com email him for info on a switch.
If you want pictures of the unit I bought at Davenport let me know.
The actaul switch mech inside has a part number stamped in it #9493
My genuine 51 parts manual does not have this early style brake light switch listed in it.
It would be interesting to know if he has made the actual switch mech and stamped the orig part number on it or if it is just a universal switch and unrelated part number.
I will have a look for the chain here and let you know how I go.

[Sargehere]

As I mentioned in my post #7, Steve, that exact chain has been used for decades in toilet tanks, here in the States, used to connect the lever to the rest of the mechanism, and can be found in a well-supplied hardware store. It's not special at all, and is sold by the foot. Let me know if you can't find it Down Under.
I want another repro switch; thanks for the lead.

[Steve Little]

Hi. I'm restoring a 37 EL.
Any body know where that brake light chain can be bought. It looks like the same style of chain that my flouro lights are hanging on, but the flouro light chain is a bigger gauge.
I also need one of those clamps on the linkage rod.

I have been trying to find the guy who made those excellent repo light switches, but I was told earlier this year that he had passed away.

I bought one of the repro brake light switches from the guy from Poland. He was selling them at Davenport.
We held his up next to an original. The only difference was, one looked new.
The finish and component build was very nice. Comes with Parkerised bracket and even has elongated bakerlight insulated washer under the bell cover.
The same guy is making those 41-46 tail lights that are starting to hit the ebay circut.

Warsaw Poland. Who would have thought.
Its as whacky a concept as some upstart in Australia making frames.

Regards Steve

[46EL]

Thanks Chris! Your photos are helpfull. I'm still learning and this early Knuckle Jigsaw Puzzle Early, Mid and Late year nightmare on some stuff can be mind boggling! I bought 2 nice complete untouched original paint Brake Light Switches at Oley probably 10 years ago for 500 and a few of my friends laughed at me back then?? Try to find one now! Saw another complete 4spd. 37 or 38 trans sell locally here at Hebron years back and the Brake Light Switch was still attached. The guy in front of me bought the whole complete unit with early kicker and bicycle pedal for $800. Can't get them all! Jp

[Sargehere]

You're well on the way, 46EL. As you can see from Chris's photo, the correct '36 front brake rod is non-adjustable, just bent 90° at each end. The adjustable one with clevis links as his last photo came on in 1937, but either one works! The correct bracket with a wing nut is stamped steel. The cast one is earlier, VL, I believe.
What I wanted to contribute is that the correct chain is the kind found in toilet tanks all over, and still available in hardware stores. I always put a straight coil spring of appropriate strength with loops on each end, on one end of the chain, to prevent you pulling the guts out of your 1934-38 brake light switch in a panic stop!
Original brake light switches are made of unobtainium, but the repops with a little Asian switch inside the round cover work very well, and are undetectable. Good luck with your '36!

[Chris Haynes]

That is the brake lock that is used when changing the tire. The brake light pull is a piece of thin Gage metal cut to shape. It wraps around the rod and is held in place with a nut and screw as shown on the 1937 below.

[46EL]

Thanks, that answers my question. Now I can also see the Brake Pull I took off a VL Rod looks like it is correct for the 36? I appreciate your time. Anything you need? John P.

[Chris Haynes]

Here is my NOS rod.

[46EL]

Thanks Rudy, I would appreciate your help!

[rudy]

I ask this same question in the mid, 90’s, and was beat down by the experts at the time for even questioning the known length. I have the rod that came on the bike, a NOS and one other… When I can get over to the bike I will pm you… Tread lightly my friend