Hard Warm Starting

[Will]

You guys seem to give me good ideas about issues when I am stuck.
I have a warm starting problem. It starts great when its cold, but stop it and leave it sit for 15 minutes, it just does not want to start. I have changed the plugs, points and condenser, adj the valves, had the mainfold rebuilt with peek seals, replaced the nipples in the heads. The plugs seem to be a little lean but not wet.
If you let it sit for an hour sit seem to start.
Is there anything I didn't think of? or am I dooned just to have another Beer

Thanks
W

[Sargehere]

Just speaking from experience, but make double d@mn sure all your adjustments, points, valves, timing, really are to spec. I had time when my UL was a BEAR to start hot: so bad that it was an embarrassment on a run across state at gas station stops. I had to be pushed off by two or three buddies to resume the run. And it was the points, worn close, lost gap. Started fine cold.
Reset the points later and it ran fine. Made me get an eBeyond2000 solid state ignition (invisible under the timer cap) after that. That sucker never goes out of time! (the preceding was not intended as a plug for one make of solid-state ignition over another. There are several brands available. 45 Parts Depot, and NOS Parts also have similar units)
Good luck with it!

[T. Cotten]

Will!

Did you bubble-test your fresh manifold hardware for certainty?

.....Cotten
http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html

[Will]

Yes I did the test for mainfold leakage and its tight. Made a plate seal myself, pumped it up to 12lbs. No leakes noticed with the detergent and it held pressure for an hour before I took the plate off. I think I got that problem solved.
Now its on to the next thing
Thanks again Tom
W

[Will]

I I think I have found the problem or a least one of them. I had a buddy come over with a proper coil tester. The coil works fine when cold but you heat the coil up for 5 minutes it becomes intermittent and questionable.
Now my next issue
Somebody know where I can get a quality repo coil, or should just buy the V-twin

Thanks
W

[Sargehere]

I I think I have found the problem or a least one of them. I had a buddy come over with a proper coil tester. The coil works fine when cold but you heat the coil up for 5 minutes it becomes intermittent and questionable.
Now my next issue
Somebody know where I can get a quality repo coil, or should just buy the V-twin

Thanks
W

If you're talking an old Harley coil, unfortunately, Tedd's V-twin is the only game in town, for 6v. 1930-47 (u-bolts) and 48-64 (top and bottom-bolted bracket) . I've asked other sellers. They all seem to get their coils from Tedd's, and they are unreliable, and generally short-lived.
Also, wound "backwards." Note when you get one that the "+" sign is on the back terminal, as it would be mounted, instead of the front, as stock, and in the service manual photos and instructions. Overlooking that has contributed to his coils failing prematurely. Polarity matters.

[Matthew N. Olse]

I have had good luck with the v twin coils as long as they stay dry, I have had better luck with dixie coils. Which ever one you decide to buy, make sure you get two of them so you can pack a spare in your saddlebag.

[bobphd]

Matt, does Dixie make 12 volt 36-47 U bolt coils? Or is Ted my only option.

Bob

[T. Cotten]

Yes I did the test for mainfold leakage and its tight. Made a plate seal myself, pumped it up to 12lbs. No leakes noticed with the detergent and it held pressure for an hour before I took the plate off. I think I got that problem solved.
Now its on to the next thing
Thanks again Tom
W

Will!

You weren't using a hand pump, but a compressor and regulator, right?

It held full pressure for an hour, even after the air was disconnected?

That's pretty amazing!

So amazing that I would inspect that your gauge is in order, just to be sure.

I had to ask, sorry.

....Cotten

[Chris Haynes]

I had a buddy come over with a proper coil tester. W

I would like to know what type of tester he was using? And where I can get one.

[Will]

I don't know the brand but it seemed like it was made pre WW2. I think he was trying to impress me with his old tools and he has a lot of old tools. He said that snap-on made one of them in the 50s. He is bringing it over when I get a new coil to test that; I'll try to get some pictures.
Without the ability to heat up the coil for a period of time, I would not have known its real condition


W

[Matthew N. Olse]

Hi Bob Dorsey,
If I were setting a bike up with a 12volt system I would use an andrews coil, they are bullet proof.
best,
matt Olsen

[bobdo]

Thanks for the info Matt, but...you addressed the wrong "Bob".
I was thinking about maybe converting to 12v, but later down the road.
Bob Dorsey

[bobphd]

Matt it was me asking....Bob Patza. I have a 12volt system on my 36. I am using one of the electronic regulators in the cut out relay style and like the original appearance of the 12 volt Ubolt coil but I hear a lot of bad things about the Teds coil. I only have about 2000 miles on this set up and have been having a few tuning issues that may be coil related. I did recently change the coil polarity based on what I have read about these coils being backwards but have not rode it or tryed to tune it in yet.

Bob Patza
AMCA 13275

[Sargehere]

Bob Patza, here's the poop on the Andrews coil:

Andrews coil by Andrews Products, PN 237230
Andrews Catalog, p. 17, bottom:
http://www.andrewsproducts.com/PDF_f...ters-Coils.pdf
30,000+ claimed volts
4.8 OHm "out the side" Harley-style coil, black, fits "points" before 1984. Retail: $70.39.

I posted that I've gone through about three, maybe four (I'm a glutton for punishment!) of Tedd's 12 volt "reproduction" u-bolted coils, trying to stay stock-looking, on my '37UL.
The one glaring exception has been for me to hose clamp a later H-D coil, the one the Andrews is made to replace, to the side of the frametube on the left side, under the solo seat. I still have the u-bolts and keepers bolted-down where they belong on the side of the seatpost, in case I ever find a reasonable replacement coil, but for now, my strapped-on "out the side" style coil is a testament to the total unreliability of Tedd's backwards-wound "reproductions."
I could get ambitious, and fab a little bracket that would mate the later coil to the stock coil mount, I guess, but it's still an out-the-side" coil, but it has given me good service for years, where I never got more than a year out of a Tedd's coil.
I also have an eBeyond2000 ignition under the timer cap, and swear by that! I set it, got instant starting, reliability, and have never had to fool with it. I ride my UL, and it's the my experience that you can't be a stickler for 6 volts, weak lights, and unreliable, unregulated charging (except for "off" and "on" through the Delco relay, or a solid-state diode) if you're going to count on your Old Harley to start and run every day.