Parkerizing Solution

[starhub]

Anybody have any experience with Brownell's parkerizing solution? I've seen it on a restoration and it looks excellent. Nice and dark. My question is they make two differnt types, zinc and manganese. I'm not sure wich one will give me the correct result.

[motorpickle]

Starhub:
I have been using this for about 2 years and I am very pleased with the finish and cost. Use the mag solution. For your own benefit tell them when you place your order what you intend to do with it. They should confirm what to use.

[Robert Luland]

Starhub this a post from me from an earlier thread in parking lot chatter. Who make the solution makes no difference. It’s price. Manganese will give you the dark color you want but as so many on this forum have pointed out. The type and composition of the metal are the final determining factor. Hope it helps. Bob

First off the kits on Fleese bay are a rip off! Go to Palmetto Enterprises 864-907-4751. Even if you’re doing one bike you’re going to go though more solution than any of those kits will ever supply. Every day Manganese is the ticket. I find the zinc phosphate to light in color. Eric is right about the sanitary thing. I wash my hands before using the beader so I don’t contaminate the gloves with oil or grease because you know the next thing your going to touch is the part ya just blasted. Just baby powder in them puppies. I took in a lot of suggestions here before I started the whole Parkerizing thing. That’s right Eric. Me and my Susie self cleaning $10 buck range. The factory parkerization last much longer and I’m pretty sure I no why. They weren’t using anything different in their solution but they were doing at 1000 degrees. Came across that in Plamers book some ware. I wouldn’t put it past the fact that the factory was use commercial pressure cookers so they didn’t boil it off. The pores of that metal at that temperature were wide open. The only reason your told to do it at 195-200 degrees is so you don’t boil of you nice expensive solution. As far as time in the solution. 10-12 minutes or one hour does not make for a better job. When that sucker stops fizzing the chemical reaction is over! I screwed with this for quit a few months. Experiment’en ya know! This is how I got the best results. I boil the parts in a pot adjacent to the solution for at least an half an hour. Why you may ask. It will get residual oil and grease off. Muriatic acid does not eat petroleum only rust. Even after you do the best beading job possible there are hidden areas that give it up in the lobster pot. I mean you got to see the oil ring in that pot when I’m done. The other reason is the part is now preheated to 212 plus degrees. When I put those parts into the solution it takes about two to three minutes and there done. I also preheat my oil so while those pours are wide open and it gets in there. I’m done ranting. Bob L

[militaryrider]

After I parkerize I boil my parts in old dirty motor oil I drain from My ford 8n .
The dirt in the oil helps the oil cling better to Your part ,also helps to darken it
try it .

[tomcat1]

by far the "BEST" stuff I've used is shooters solutions. It's the blackest of black Manganese park and the fool proof easiest stuff I've used. If you are a novist, get the whole kit. If you are an old pro, then just get the Concentrate Solution itself. The pre cleaner and the post "dewater" is not necessary. I just bead blast, then dip in acetone, hit with the air nozzle, and then in the park tank. Then water rinse, and the dewater solution is nothing more than wd-40. then I let it soak in motor oil a bit and I'm done. I've done mostly gun parts in the Manganese and it's fool proof.

http://www.shootersolutions.com/parkerizekits.html

[Eric]

Parkerizing

I used epi products
see at http://www.epi.com/
and result on manifold and oil pump.
http://www.harley-memories.com/harle...tures/jdh3.jpg

[bmh]

I get mine from these folks. It meets Mil Spec and the prices are better than most. I think they actually make the stuff and re-lable it for Brownells and others.

http://www.lauerweaponry.com

[Ohio-Rider]

The one thing I can’t find searching this subject of Parkerizing is, Can the solution after being mixed with distilled water be stored? I’ve got plating solution that hasn’t been changed in years and still works when I need it. Just wondering if this stuff they sell is the same way?

One more question while I’m at it. Is it agreed that the magnesium solution will give the correct color for a mid-40’s civilian WL?

[Chris Haynes]

The one thing I can’t find searching this subject of Parkerizing is, Can the solution after being mixed with distilled water be stored? ?

Yes it can.

[Jerry Wieland]

Steve You need to store in something it will not react with such as glass, plastic or stainless containers. Jerry

[Ohio-Rider]

Thanks guys, Now to get me some of this stuff and give it a try. I wonder if I can apply it over the parts I've already freshly zinc plated or maybe i'll need to blast the zinc back off first? I'll let you know how it works out for me in a few weeks.

[exeric]

Maybe I'm using a cheap Parkerizing solution; but when I store mine in a plastic milk jug for an extended time, it settles to the bottom in the form of wet chalk. I've had no trouble returning it to suspension by crunching it up and applying heat. It still gives me good results.

[bobdo]

Eric,
I've had the same problem with the "chalk-like" stuff. I've always thought it was foreign material boiled out of the parts during the process ( oil, dirt, s__t ). You just can't get all the stuff out of some parts.
I always used a paint filter to clean it out of the solution & the solution was just as good for the next batch. I use Manganese from wherever I can find it. All I do is bead blast the parts clean to bare steel ( no plating of any kind Ohio-Rider), try not to touch them too much, boil them in the solution til I get the color I want, flipping them around for even coating. Then I take them out, pat them dry with a towel & drop them into hot, used, 60w oil. I heat the oil on my barbecue far away from my garage. This has always worked well for me. Also, I've stored the stuff for years in plastic jugs & just added to it as it boils away.
Hope this helps someone.

[Chris Haynes]

Thanks guys, Now to get me some of this stuff and give it a try. I wonder if I can apply it over the parts I've already freshly zinc plated or maybe i'll need to blast the zinc back off first? I'll let you know how it works out for me in a few weeks.

Your parts must be bare metal for the Parkerizing to work.

[Ohio-Rider]

You guys sure make it sound easy. So there’s no learning curve like when I was learning to plate things? I didn’t buy a kit because I don’t think I’ll need all the other stuff. I got a jug of this stuff which makes about 3 gallons of solution. That should be enough to do one complete bike I would think. Most parts I need to do will fit into a 2.5 gallon bucket, the rest I'll need to figure something else out for what to do.

http://www.shootersolutions.com/parkerizem32.html