Parkerizing Solution

[Chris Haynes]

Good golly, Chris!

Absolutely none of my Pyrex labware, nor any I have encountered in my lifetime, ever had such script. ...Cotten

Try looking carefully with your glasses on.

[camsaure]

Heh, I have to admit I never noticed or even looked for the fine print on the bottom of the Pyrex, plus it's a little hard to see now as it broke into a gazillion pieces like a tempered car window. I have to admit I got the pyrex idea also from Palmers book. After the incident, while cleaning up the "ol lady" laughed and said "didn't you know better,I broke one many years ago on the stove top trying to keep something warm and not even hot like you were trying to do". Well it looks like I can gift her the two extra dishes that I will not be using in the future.

[T. Cotten]

Gosh Chris,

I think you have Pyrex confused with modern oriental imitations ("pylex").

Liberty's coffeepot does fine right on the range (attached).

Folks, Corning makes fine thermal shock-resistant glassware too!

The point of using glass is that it is inert to the compounds we are dealing with.

....Cotten
PS: And don't use them to test motor oils with a propane torch, unless the glass has been warmed for quite some time.

[Chris Haynes]

Here it it Tom.

[T. Cotten]

Goes to show you, Chris,

New crap is CRAP!

Get thee to the alleys and dumpsters for the good stuff.

....Cotten
PS: Once again, its all about the font. huh.
PPS: Maybe its just my monitor, but it looks like stress risers all over your dish. I've polished out auto rods better.

[rwm]

i use a turkey roasting pan with no nicks in the enamel. bought for a few bucks at a thrift shop. all my pyrex says no range top. the box said from the frig to the oven.

[Chris Haynes]

Tom,
That Pyrex pan is at least 25 years old.

[T. Cotten]

Chris!

That's pretty modern to me!

I admit that I have broken more than my share of genuine Pyrex over the years, but it usually was adding H2O to concentrated H2SO4 in a volumetric under running cold water, cooking drops of Valvoline VR1 and AeroShell with a propane torch to compare their ash, or some other risky operation.

The durability of any glass product it subject to use limitations, and I can easily imagine that the company had to cover its behind in these modern sue-me-sue-you times.

I guess my Pyrex and Corningware is destined to be collectible.

....Cotten

[bikerdds]

Guys, I am new to Knuckleheads but have done some parkerizing in the past and have noticed that no one has ever mentioned the product from Berkshire/Casey for parkerizing. It is a room temperature process with no need for the heating or any special equipment. Can use a plastic tub and it lasts seemingly forever. As long as you do not accidently leave a part overnight, can last for years. Can easily add more solution if need be. They also sell an archiving/protective oil but unfortunately minimum quantity around five gallons. This is an industrial process that makes parkerizing a snap. Doing a military bike this way and seems to hold up quite well. Learned this from a restoration shop that specializes in antique Fords and some bikes. Clean, blast, dump in and in seconds to minutes instant parkerizing. Rinse/dry off and wipe with the oil. Beautiful, consistant look on hardware in particular. Extreme hardened metals tend to look slightly lighter, but consistancy is amazing. Marty

[koanes]

I have an old restorer friend that has recommended the cold Parkerizing process for years. I am curious about how well the finish lasts over time. I guess if you heated the parts after the cold Park, you could still do the hot oil immersion.

[bselph]

Guys, I am new to Knuckleheads but have done some parkerizing in the past and have noticed that no one has ever mentioned the product from Berkshire/Casey for parkerizing. It is a room temperature process with no need for the heating or any special equipment. Can use a plastic tub and it lasts seemingly forever. As long as you do not accidently leave a part overnight, can last for years. Can easily add more solution if need be. They also sell an archiving/protective oil but unfortunately minimum quantity around five gallons. This is an industrial process that makes parkerizing a snap. Doing a military bike this way and seems to hold up quite well. Learned this from a restoration shop that specializes in antique Fords and some bikes. Clean, blast, dump in and in seconds to minutes instant parkerizing. Rinse/dry off and wipe with the oil. Beautiful, consistant look on hardware in particular. Extreme hardened metals tend to look slightly lighter, but consistancy is amazing. Marty

If you are talking about Birchwood Casey, I can't find a parkerizing solution on their website.

[bikerdds]

It is called Presto black, by Birchwood technologies, which I believe is part of Birchwood casey. Piece of cake compared to bothering with heating solutions! Only drawback is the quantities it is sold in. More a problem for the oil. The blackening mixes 10:1, and can add more when strenght is dropping or start with new. The milkiness it ruens to does not affect the coating at all. Starts out as a blue solution. Literally blast/clkean your part and put in anbd in seconds it is black! Wipe of the excess and coat with preservative oil. I use the birchwood product since a friend gets it in the 5 gallon size for their shop. Consistancy has been 100%.

[exeric]

I recall using the Presto black product at a company I worked for many years ago. I would like to think it has improved as I was not at all impressed with it back then. It was intended to be an affordable, short run black oxide process. That company went back to having their black oxide professionally done. Parkerizing is a different process that is very durable, has good longevity, and has a different color. It is what H-D, and Indian used.

[bikerdds]

Eriuc, I have parts that have been done commercially, and those with the prestoblkack. Can not tell the difference. It meets or exceeds what was military ww2 spec for our war bikes. it is considered parkerizing and it is manganese oxide.

[exeric]

I am not a chemist so I wouldn't know how black oxide, and Parkerizing work, but I do know there is a difference. My experience with Parkerizing is; the color will be different based on the alloy of steel. If you examine any unrestored Harley-Davidson that used Parkerizing, you will notice the colors vary from near black, to greenish, and gray. Hardened, high carbon steels will take Parkerizing differently than a mild steel. My experience with black oxide is, it makes all steels black which is the desired effect. Also, Parkerizing seems to have an almost porous, dull surface finish that will hold oil which I believe is why H-D liked it. My examination of black oxide as used on objects like carbide tool holders, and machine tools is more of a matte' finish that shows the texture of the parent steel underneath.