stuck steering damper

[pan61man]

Hi,
I just picked up an early 40's springer and the steering damper is stuck in the fork. At first I figured it was painted in place but it seems to be more stuck than that. I hit the top of the rod with a lead hammer to no avail. At one time it looks like somebody tried to pry the discs off of the bottom and bent one of the discs a little.
I filled the stem with kriol last night and will try again tonight. Does anybody here have any experience with this?
Thanks for any help,
Doug

[framemaker]

Hi. This is just a guess..... On the 1936 through 1940 Inline springer it has a keyway in the hole in the bottom where the steering damper passes through. This keyway is for the correct steering damper for 36-40 that has the key dowel fitted. If it is a 36-40 inline springer that you have, it may have rusted together at this point. I dont know how to post pictures but I have a couple of these early type springers, and can take a picture of this area and email you direct if you want.
Steve

[Kozy]

Stuck Dampner

I have the same problem. Filled neck with PB Blaster and let sit for six weeks, wacked with lead hammer, still no movement. Refilled neck with kroil, let set for two more weeks, wacked with hammer, bent dampner rod. Became possed by some demon that made grind off the bottom of the rod to remove the discs. Flipped fork over now soaking bottom of rod with oil for several weeks and it is still froze tight. I haven't noticed any key way but wasn't really looking for one. Can it be seen from the bottom of the neck? Framemaker, could you copy me on those pictures? I was about to try pressing the rod out from the bottom but if it is keyed that might not be possible. May have to drill it out.

[pan61man]

Thanks for the replies. I could not wait weeks for the Kroil to work (by the way they gaurntee it will free everything but it has failed me twice, and the stuff smells bad and the odor sticks to you, they have good advertising though). I took the trusty 1/2 inch Milwaukee drill out, the one with enough torque to break your wrist, and had at it...and had at it...and had at it. finally I was at the end of my drill bit and the feeler I could put down the neck tube was almost at the same distance down as the drill bit was up. I took a chance and inched out the 5/16 bit as far as I could in the chuck and that did not work. All the while I was banging at the top and bottom of the rod and trying to twist it out with a vise grip and stinking like Kroil. Finally with the drill bit used up I gave one last twist on the top of the keyed damper rod and it creaked out with a rusty hinge sort of sound. By the way while I was drilling a ton of black ****/soot like material kept coming out of the hole.
I figure the rod really got rusted in there. Suprisingly, because the fork is really clean.
By the way frame man are you the fellow from race frames in Australia? Those are some beautiful frames and necks.
Doug

[framemaker]

Kozy.
I looked at your profile to get your email address but it says you have elected not to list it. If you email me through the email link on my web site, "it is listed under my profile" I will send the pictures of the keyed area on the bottom of the early springer.

Thanks Doug.
At the moment, I am proudest of the new Straightleg sidecar lugs that we finished a couple of weeks back. The numbers and hallmark are exact to OEM and are crisp and clear. You can read the GL in the Hallmark clearly, and the flash mark stands out nicely on the front and rear,......and ....... and.........err ......I'm gushing......arent I?
Check them out on my web site www.raceframe.com.au They are right down the bottom of each frame page. The part number is VC105
Thanks.
Steve