Knuckle Wiring Questions

[34VFD]

I'm trying to figure out how H-D utilized roughly 3/8" wire loops on #10 studs back in the day. Did you double the wire over to take up slack in the loop? I'm a real geek when it comes to things like this like figuring out why H-D would use #10 ring terminals on items with #8 screws like stop lamp switches, horns, coils, etc. Here's an example of an NOS 1938 panel to coil, battery frame terminal and tail lamp frame terminal. Way larger than a #10 screw and verified as an original OEM part. It doesn't seem to be a very sound method of wiring up your bike. I've asked elsewhere before and had little luck figuring out the logic behind it and how it was actually wired up as it's so rare to find anything from this vintage with original wiring.

[Jerry Wieland]

Early wiring ends had an eyelet that the wire was wrapped around and then they were dipped in a solder pot. I do not know who did you wiring loops but they are not like OEM.

[34VFD]

Early wiring ends had an eyelet that the wire was wrapped around and then they were dipped in a solder pot. I do not know who did you wiring loops but they are not like OEM.

Jerry, everything I can find appears that eyelets were gone by 1938, I'm used to seeing them on VL harnesses. I had picked this sample up from Rat @ Harbor Vintage some time back, they were certain it was NOS. The aging on the cotton woven loom and asphalt sleeve that holds the oil pressure wire to the main loom appears about right for circa pre-war.

[joe fxs fxr]

My father was an electrician, and I recall seeing something like these on old house wiring. There was a gap at the edge for the wire to exit. Maybe that's what they did on the bikes to support the wires? That would explain the difference in ring diameter.

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