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Is the procedure for rear sprocket change documented in the genuine manual?

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  • #16
    I would also use drifts that are around 4 - 5 inches long. They should be be bigger in diameter and then tapered down at the end if needed to fit the confined area of the rivet location. Most of my riveting tools are around 1/2 to 5/8 diameter and tapered down at the end. The bigger riveting tools will also let your bigger hammer be more effective and feel much more solid when you are riveting. You will be able to get the rivets set much easier and faster.
    Jim D

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    • #17
      This is good information Jim, thank-you!

      One detail I questioned when I found myself needing to strike the rivets so many times was NOT the hammer mass, instead I questioned whether the rivet was too long. I had learned that a solid rivet should have 1.5 times the shank diameter protruding above the eventual surface to be peened to. With these heavier rivets I started to think 1.5 times the shank diameter was too much rivet shank to peen over.
      Pisten Bully is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

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      • #18
        FARSIDE.jpg

        This started out with a question as to how the factory did it, Folks.

        Rivets are best pressed.

        ,,,,Cotten
        PS: Whanging on a cast iron drum is the last thing you want to do: I trashed a Chief drum before I figured out how a rivet really works.
        Last edited by T. Cotten; 02-14-2021, 09:09 PM.
        AMCA #776
        Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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        • #19
          I think that the 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet for the length to be peened over may be a little bit long also. I just go by looking at the at the rivet and cutting it to what I think is the right length which may be shorter on a bigger diameter rivet. When I am riveting a brake drum I hit the rivet not the brake drum.
          Jim D

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          • #20
            I also made a plate years ago with dimples in it located in relationship to the heads of the rivets when they are installed. That way I can put all the rivets in to align the sprocket before peening the rivets over. As far as removing the old rivets, I chuck the drum in a 4-jaw, indicate it in to take most of the "wobble" out of it, eyeball that it runs relatively true on its axis, and "face" the heads of the rivets off, cutting into the face of the sprocket just a little. Then use a flat punch to remove the rivets.

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